Sal’s Place, a Scrappy Pop-Up Restaurant, Shuttles Between L.A. and the East Coast

Sal’s Place: A Hidden Culinary Gem in West Hollywood

In the bustling landscape of West Hollywood’s dining scene, Sal’s Place presents itself as an easily overlooked treasure. Nearly hidden by vibrant bougainvillea, this West Hollywood restaurant occupies a corner on North Robertson Boulevard. The building, an eclectic mix of structures, features a tent elegantly draped over a frame of wood and glass. Notably, it eschews typical Los Angeles formalities like valet parking and even a prominent sign, adding to its understated charm. Patrons seeking the restroom are directed to step outside and turn left, further emphasizing its unconventional approach.

Seasonal Dining: From Cape Cod to California

Adding to its distinctive nature, Sal’s Place operates for approximately six months each year. This limited availability is integral to the restaurant’s story, rooted in the harsh winters of the East Coast and the captivating allure of the pop-up restaurant concept. It also speaks to the vision of its dynamic owner, Siobhan Carew. Three years ago, Carew spearheaded a cross-country migration of her team to establish a winter outpost of her namesake eatery from Provincetown, Massachusetts.

The Provincetown Origin: A Summer Haven

On the Atlantic coast, the original Sal’s Place enjoys a prime location on a Cape Cod beach. Situated in a converted boatbuilding wharf suspended over the water on stilts, the Provincetown location is inherently unsuitable for winter operations. This seasonal limitation influenced Ms. Carew, 60, who, having relocated to Provincetown full-time after closing her Boston-based restaurants during the pandemic, sought a warmer climate for the off-season.

West Coast Expansion: Embracing the Pop-Up Spirit

While the West Coast iteration of Sal’s Place began with the spontaneous essence of a pop-up venture, Ms. Carew envisions a long-term presence in Los Angeles. Its 60-seat capacity is consistently attracting significant patronage, notably a younger, more diverse clientele compared to Il Piccolino, the long-standing establishment that previously occupied the space before succumbing to pandemic-related challenges in 2022.

Remembering Il Piccolino: A Bygone Era

Il Piccolino, inaugurated in 2005, held a revered position within a specific segment of Los Angeles society. Known for its premium prices, such as a $60 veal chop, it catered to a well-heeled clientele, including established celebrities like Joan Collins and Liza Minnelli. Its menu, featuring dishes like lobster with white truffle sauce and “Jerry Weintraub’s Spaghetti Clam Show,” a spaghetti with clams dish named after a regular Hollywood producer patron, epitomized its upscale ethos.

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Sal’s Place: A Distinctive Identity

Subtle reminders of Il Piccolino persist, like the etched “Il Piccolino” on a glass partition and the existing striped banquettes. However, Sal’s Place distinguishes itself in numerous ways.

Technology-Free Reservations and Cash-Only Policy

Notably, Sal’s Place operates without a website and relies exclusively on phone reservations, either through Ms. Carew’s personal line or the restaurant’s, both identified by Massachusetts area codes. Ms. Carew intentionally avoids online reservation platforms like OpenTable or Resy.

“I dislike all of that,” she stated, expressing her preference for a more personal approach. “It adds another layer that detracts from a personal experience. It feels inauthentic.”

Furthermore, Sal’s Place is a cash-only establishment.

Michael Fleming, president of the David Bohnett Foundation and a regular at both Sal’s Place locations, finds this cash-only policy intriguing. “The cash thing here fascinates me; nobody uses cash anymore,” he observed. “And yet, these studio executives have to arrive with a wad of bills. They must plan ahead before dining here. It’s deliberately chosen as a destination for dinner.”

Farm-to-Table Italian Cuisine in Southern California

Open six nights a week, Sal’s Place crafts its menu around the Wednesday farmers’ market in Santa Monica, a favored source for Los Angeles chefs. The proximity to a year-round, abundant market was an early discovery for Ms. Carew, highlighting the advantages of operating a restaurant in Southern California. The Italian menu, characterized by traditional dishes with innovative twists, reflects this fresh, local focus. Examples include rigatoni cacio e pepe ($40) with pesto and fresh broccolini, a salad of pickled red onions and fresh herbs ($20), and Sal’s Caesar salad ($20) generously topped with shaved cauliflower.

Seasonal Relocation and Restaurant History

As the weather transitions to warmer temperatures, Sal’s Place closes its West Hollywood location and returns to the East Coast. The Cape Cod building, lacking winterization, dictates this seasonal migration. Ms. Carew and her daughter, Michaela Carew-Murphy, acquired Sal’s in Provincetown in 2016, becoming the third owners of the restaurant since its inception in 1962. Ms. Carew independently leases the West Hollywood space.

Provincetown’s Sal’s Place: A Welcoming Atmosphere

The Provincetown establishment, with a capacity of 110 seats, cultivates an artsy and eclectic yet unpretentious ambiance under Ms. Carew’s direction. Known for her flexibility, she assures patrons, “No cash? Stop by tomorrow to settle the bill.”

Filmmaker John Waters, a long-time summer resident of Provincetown, describes Sal’s Place as “definitely the coolest restaurant in Provincetown. It’s very Felliniesque.” He reminisced about its earlier days: “She used to have chairs on the beach, and you had to take your shoes off.”

Comparing Ms. Carew to Elaine Kaufman, of the former New York celebrity haunt Elaine’s, Waters stated, “There’s no such thing as an Elaine in Provincetown, but if there was, she would be it.”

New England Vibe in Los Angeles

This distinctive atmosphere extends to West Hollywood. Marylouise Oates, former society columnist for The Los Angeles Times, notes Sal’s Place’s uniqueness in the Los Angeles dining scene. “It’s very New England, it’s very Cape,” she observed. “There’s just something about the whole spirit of the place, and I think Siobhan herself is a force of nature.”

Siobhan Carew: The “Hospitality Maven”

Ms. Carew describes herself as a “hospitality maven,” emphasizing her focus on the dining room experience rather than kitchen duties. Born in Ireland, she immigrated to the United States in 1981 at the age of 17 and retains a subtle Irish accent. She settled in Boston, specifically Brookline, where former Governor Michael Dukakis was a neighbor.

From Boston to Provincetown: A Pandemic Pivot

Ms. Carew entered the restaurant industry three decades ago, eventually opening three Boston restaurants, all of which closed during the pandemic. “Our restaurants were too small for social distancing, so we decided to relocate to P-town full-time,” she explained. “We could offer outdoor dining there, and the lifestyle was conducive to walks and outdoor activities.”

As the pandemic subsided, Ms. Carew opted against returning to Boston. A staff survey revealed a lack of enthusiasm for Cape Cod winters, prompting her move to Los Angeles, despite warnings from friends. “Los Angeles is not where I would have suspected she would pop up,” remarked Mr. Waters.

Finding a Provisional Charm in Los Angeles

Ms. Carew was immediately drawn to the vacant Il Piccolino space. She noted a parallel with her Provincetown restaurant: “It has a provisional quality because we are housed in a tent structure,” she wrote. “They both have a semi-permanent vibe.”

Embracing the Los Angeles Lifestyle

Ms. Carew has genuinely embraced her new city. “I am very excited about everything about L.A.,” she expressed. “The access to nature. The weather. I mean, look at this: It’s March, it’s insane.” On the day of their conversation, the weather was a pleasant 67 degrees and sunny.

Navigating Current Challenges

Despite the appealing climate, Ms. Carew acknowledges the challenges of opening a restaurant in the current economic climate. Los Angeles’s dining scene, like much of the nation, is still recovering from the pandemic’s impact. Business was further affected by the 2023 Hollywood writers’ strike and the January wildfires.

“People didn’t know what to do,” Ms. Carew recounted. “They felt guilty about going out to eat, even if they weren’t directly impacted by the fires.” Despite these hurdles, Sal’s Place perseveres, offering a unique and personal dining experience in West Hollywood.