The Daiquiri Demands More Respect

East Village Bar Kabawa: A New Haven for Daiquiri Devotees

Bar Kabawa, a newly opened cocktail establishment in the East Village connected to chef Paul Carmichael’s Caribbean-inspired restaurant, Kabawa, is poised to elicit varied responses, as is typical of any new venue. However, for enthusiasts of the classic daiquiri, the primary reaction will likely be a resounding question: Where has this bar been all along?

Outside of its birthplace, Cuba, the daiquiri has seldom received such dedicated attention and reverence.

A Shrine to the Daiquiri

A radiant neon sign in the window proclaims “wine & daiquiris” in vibrant lavender script. Daiquiris dominate the upper portion of the first page on the drink menu. Upon entering, a prominent, hand-operated ice-cranking machine commands attention on the bar, diligently shaving blocks of ice. The resulting delicate heap of snow cascades into a glass below, forming the base for a freshly prepared daiquiri. Mirroring the traditional methods of Havana, these daiquiris are crafted from a simple yet refined combination of lime juice, sugar, and rum.

Elevating the Cocktail Experience

This style of treatment—simultaneously playful, informed, respectful, and meticulous—has become commonplace for other iconic cocktails. Any reasonably ambitious new Italian eatery is expected to present a diverse selection of Negroni variations. Manhattans undergo barrel aging and microwave enhancement. In pursuit of extreme chill, martinis are frozen overnight, subjected to ultrasonic waves via diamond-cleaning equipment, and chilled below their natural freezing point employing Japanese Supercooling Magic technology, initially designed for organ preservation.

While these cocktails have ascended to revered status, the daiquiri has remained comparatively overlooked. It appears infrequently on drink menus, occasionally surfacing in tiki-themed bars but often overshadowed by more flamboyant concoctions like the Missionary’s Downfall. Even cocktail bars that offer variations such as the Hemingway daiquiri may rarely prepare the original, unadulterated recipe.

A Bartender’s Secret Handshake

This relative neglect is surprising, considering the high regard many bartenders hold for the daiquiri. It serves as a subtle acknowledgement among those in the profession, a quiet understanding exchanged between the drinker and the bartender, signifying shared expertise and appreciation for cocktail craft.

“It represents the purest form of mixology,” asserts St. John Frizell, co-owner of Sunken Harbor Club in Brooklyn and Gage & Tollner, where the classic daiquiri features on the menu.

During his tenure at his own bar, Fort Defiance, Mr. Frizell initiated bartender training sessions focused on the daiquiri. Trainees would prepare the standard three-ingredient recipe in various ratios to observe how subtle modifications could produce significantly different results.

“There are no complexities to mask imperfections,” Mr. Frizell explained, emphasizing the daiquiri’s demand for precision.

The Daiquiri as a Litmus Test

Early in her career, Karin Stanley, currently the beverage director at Lincoln Center, recalls working at establishments where bartenders commenced each shift with a round of daiquiris, and another where they shared a shaker of the drink at midnight.

When assessing a new bar, “it remains my essential gauge,” Ms. Stanley states. “It reveals whether the bartender possesses a nuanced understanding of the subtle art of its preparation.”

Introducing the Snaquiri

Ms. Stanley, who included a $10 daiquiri on the happy-hour menu at David Geffen Hall, is credited with coining the term “Snaquiri.” This refers to a concise and refreshing pause within an evening of drinking. However, the term “pause” is somewhat misleading, as the Snaquiri is essentially a full-strength daiquiri served in smaller glasses. In certain circles, the Snaquiri is also known as a D.T.O., an acronym for Daiquiri Time Out.

Bateman’s, a new cocktail lounge also situated in the East Village, employs Snaquiri-sized portions for test versions of drinks still under development. Their Snaquiris invariably start with rum but may incorporate elements like pandan liqueur, kumquat oleo-saccharum, or fresh Granny Smith apple juice acidified with citric and malic acids.

“A Snaquiri is never a fully perfected cocktail,” explains Natasha Van Duser, the beverage director. “It is always something we are actively experimenting with.”

Despite the popularity of Snaquiris, requests for traditional daiquiris are infrequent at Bateman’s and other bars where Ms. Van Duser has worked. She speculates that negative experiences with poorly made daiquiris—prepared with inferior rum or stale lime juice—may deter people for good.

Two Distinct Daiquiri Identities

“It is remarkably easy to encounter a poorly executed daiquiri,” she notes.

Adding further complexity to the drink’s perception, the term “daiquiri” encompasses two fundamentally different entities. One is the Cuban original, named after the town of Daiquiri, crafted from rum, lime, and sugar, and served in a refined cocktail glass. The other is a frozen concoction produced by a machine, potentially containing strawberry syrup, grain alcohol, and virtually any imaginable ingredient, typically presented in sizes and colors that clearly disregard any notion of sophistication.

The Reign of the Frozen Daiquiri

Frozen daiquiris are the common language at establishments like Margaritaville, Chi-Chi’s, the Flora-Bama Lounge, and generally any bar where patrons in flip-flops are readily welcomed.

New Orleans, however, stands as the global epicenter of the frozen daiquiri. The city boasts creations like the Voodoo Daiquiri, colloquially known as “purple drank”; the Hand Grenade, distinguished by its alluring antifreeze hue and garnished with a plastic explosive replica; and the Shark Attack, a Tropical Isle specialty accompanied by a cacophony of sirens, bells, whistles, and shouts of “Get out of the water!”

“Anything that’s frozen becomes a daiquiri,” states Abigail Gullo, creative director of the bar at the International House hotel in New Orleans. “The base spirit—rum, brandy, or bourbon—is irrelevant.”

The Frozen Daiquiri’s Origin

The divergence in daiquiri nomenclature can be precisely traced back to 1980. In this year, David Ervin, an enterprising Louisiana Tech student, launched the Daiquiri Factory, a drive-through outlet in Lafayette, Louisiana. It offered a spectrum of vividly colored frozen drinks, most bearing little resemblance to the traditional daiquiri.

“‘Daiquiri’ suggested prestige and status, and I concluded that most people had either never tasted one or had no concept of its true nature,” Mr. Ervin recently recounted to drinks writer Wayne Curtis. “Branding every frozen cocktail as a daiquiri was my pioneering move.”

Frozen Daiquiris in New Orleans: A World of Flavors

Currently, upscale bars across New Orleans have reimagined cocktails like Sazeracs, Pimm’s cups, Ramos gin fizzes, and Irish coffees in frozen daiquiri form. Walls of daiquiri machines are commonplace at weddings, fried-chicken restaurants, and even hybrid establishments like Melba’s, a po’ boy shop and bookstore. Yet, despite their vibrant colors and diverse fruit flavors, a curious characteristic of frozen daiquiris in New Orleans persists: they are rarely actually daiquiri-flavored.

Bar Kabawa’s Daiquiri Distinction

At Bar Kabawa, the focus is on the authentic daiquiri flavor. Their signature Kabawa daiquiri is served over shaved ice, creating a hybrid between a shaken cocktail and a frozen drink. Another offering evokes the flavors of a piña colada. A third uniquely incorporates allspice, smoke, salt, and habaneros—emulating the essence of jerk spice.

“Numerous places may offer overly sweet, candy-like concoctions, but that is not our approach,” clarifies Kathryn Stashek, holding the title of “creative bartender” at both Bar Kabawa and Kabawa restaurant. She mentions that some patrons initially express an anti-daiquiri sentiment, but most are open to exploring their offerings. “The reception has been overwhelmingly positive.”

The Enduring Appeal of a Well-Made Daiquiri

This positive reception will not surprise bartenders like Mr. Frizell, who consider the daiquiri to be “the perfect drink.”

He concludes, “When expertly prepared, the daiquiri is universally appealing.”