Importance Score: 40 / 100 🔵
Surrey’s Starling Restaurant Earns Michelin Star in Prestigious 2025 Guide
The Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland 2025, a prestigious culinary directory, recently unveiled its latest selections, and among the distinguished entries is Starling, a new Surrey restaurant. Situated on Esher High Street, this eatery, which commenced operations just last summer, swiftly garnered its inaugural Michelin Star within mere months of opening. This remarkable achievement positions Starling as a noteworthy destination for fine dining enthusiasts and elevates Surrey’s gastronomic landscape.
Michelin Star Recognition for Esher Newcomer
Starling joins a select group of Surrey establishments already celebrated by Michelin, including Latymer in Bagshot, The Tudor Pass in Egham, and Sorrel in Dorking. A journalist from Surrey Live, curious to experience the newly acclaimed restaurant, visited Starling. Her initial impression upon arrival was one of surprise. The anticipated formality often associated with high-end dining was absent. Gone were the expected white tablecloths, strict dress requirements, or extravagant tasting menus.
Atmosphere and Ambience: A Departure from Fine Dining Conventions
The restaurant’s setting also defied typical fine dining stereotypes. It was not located within a grand five-star hotel or surrounded by expansive, manicured gardens. Instead, Starling presented itself as a bistro featuring an open kitchen, positioned along a lively high street. This unconventional approach piqued the journalist’s interest, making her “incredibly curious to find out what appeared like a seemingly casual spot, was bestowed such an illustrious award only a few months after opening”. It quickly became apparent why this neighborhood establishment was recognized at a national level.
Culinary Leadership and Menu Innovation
Under the guidance of Nick Beardshaw, winner of the Great British Menu, the cuisine and beverages offered were indeed innovative, dramatic, and sophisticated, aligning with expectations of Michelin-starred dining. However, these elements were presented within a more relaxed and informal context.
Bistro-Inspired Setting and Lively Vibe
“My immediate impression was that Starling reminded me of a Parisian bistro,” the reporter noted. “The restaurant was inviting, intimate, and vibrant with patrons on a Wednesday evening, with every table occupied in what has become Surrey’s widely discussed new dining destination.”
Dining Experience: Menu and Signature Dishes
Arriving at 7:30 pm, the journalist and her companion proceeded to explore the menu. They observed that while tables were positioned closely, this arrangement contributed to a dynamic and energetic atmosphere.
Home-Style Cooking with Refined Techniques
Echoing a classic French bistro, Starling emphasizes expertly prepared, home-style dishes utilizing simple, fresh components. Notably, even familiar options like steak and chips were featured on the menu.
Rustic Bread and Menu Surprises
The journalist admitted she “wasn’t expecting hearty classics like this”, further stating that “it only fascinated me more as we munched through a bowl of crusty bread – Rhodes Campaillou to be exact”. This French-inspired loaf offered a robust, crunchy exterior and a light, airy interior with a subtle malt flavor.
‘A Moon Shaped Pool’: A Michelin-Worthy Dish
The menu highlighted several creations Chef Beardshaw previously showcased on television. The first dish sampled was ‘A Moon Shaped Pool’, named after a painting displayed in the restaurant.
Sensational Flavors and Innovative Presentation
Describing the dish, the journalist wrote: “when the peculiar dish came out, it was peak Michelin cookery. It was innovative, dramatic and above all, tasted sensational.” A “lovely and very professional waiter” poured a “thick creamy liquid over a grey film”, initially appearing “not overly appetising”. However, this transformed into the “glossiest green Thai curry gravy I had ever had”, according to the reporter. Paired with delicate line-caught Cornish cod cheek and marinated cucumber, it was a masterful and rich dish.
Seasonal Menu and Main Course Selection
Reflecting a commitment to seasonal ingredients, the menu is regularly updated. On the occasion of the visit, eight main courses were offered, with half being steak options. The fillet from Stokes Marsh Farm, accompanied by triple-cooked chips, proved particularly enticing.
‘Impeccably Seasoned’ Steak and Chips
The journalist’s assessment of the steak and chips was highly favorable: “The hunk of beef was impeccably seasoned and the piping hot chips were ridiculously crunchy on the outside and fluffy in the centre”.
‘Balloon Girl’ Dessert: A Sweet Masterpiece
The acclaimed ‘Balloon Girl’ dessert served as the highlight of the meal. This sweet creation, also featured on The Great British Menu, was presented within an ornate, gold-painted wooden frame, referencing the renowned Banksy artwork.
A ‘Wow Factor’ Dessert
According to the reporter, the dessert “provided the wow factor”. Comprising a beautiful raspberry cheesecake heart and chocolate torte, accompanied by nostalgic sugar paper strips, it was declared “divine”.
Verdict: Michelin Star Dining, Redefined and Accessible
In conclusion, the journalist summarized: “Blending innovative cookery with home comforts, Starling really is different to other Michelin star restaurants”.
Accessibility and Local Appeal
Its high street location, an affordable £30 three-course lunch offering, and a relaxed ambiance make Michelin-level dining accessible to a wider audience. Locals who might have previously considered Michelin-starred restaurants beyond their reach can now experience exceptional cuisine in their own neighborhood.