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FROM Norway to Canada, farmed Atlantic salmon are escaping in such large numbers that they are a threat to the local salmon. This could be prevented by making the farmed fish sterile. But there is a catch: the sterile fish are less nutritious.
Salmon farming has satisfied soaring demand without the need to catch ever more wild salmon. But it has also created an entirely new threat.

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Farmed salmon have been transformed into a domesticated animal by selective breeding. They eat …