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Afghan Women Turn to Carpet Weaving Amidst Restrictions and Economic Hardship
In Kabul, Afghanistan, within the confines of a bustling carpet workshop, scores of women and young girls engage in the intricate craft of carpet weaving. The atmosphere is dense and airless as they labor, highlighting how limited opportunities and the ongoing education ban imposed by the Taliban regime have compelled many Afghan women into this profession as one of the few available means of earning a livelihood. For these women, carpet weaving has become a critical source of income in the face of significant economic challenges and restricted employment prospects since the Taliban takeover in 2021.
Education Ban and Limited Opportunities for Women
Salehe Hassani, a 19-year-old weaver, embodies the sentiments of many. “We girls no longer have the opportunity to pursue education,” she explains, her voice tinged with disappointment. “Circumstances have deprived us of schooling, leading us to seek work in this workshop.” Since the Taliban’s ascendance to power, girls above the age of 12 have been prohibited from attending school, and women have faced exclusion from numerous sectors of employment across Afghanistan.
Decline in Female Workforce Participation
Prior to the Taliban’s return in 2020, women constituted a mere 19% of the Afghan workforce, a figure already significantly lower than that of men. Under the current Taliban administration, this percentage has further diminished. The scarcity of job opportunities, compounded by the nation’s precarious economic condition, has driven numerous women towards the demanding and time-consuming work of carpet weaving. This sector remains one of the few where the Taliban government permits female employment.
Carpet Weaving: A Lifeline for Afghan Families
The carpet weaving industry is a significant contributor to the Afghan economy. United Nations data indicates that between 1.2 to 1.5 million Afghans depend on this industry for their livelihoods, with women comprising approximately 90% of the workforce.
Booming Carpet Exports Amidst Economic Collapse
Despite a stark economic downturn in Afghanistan—described as a “basic collapse” by a 2024 UN report—the carpet export sector is experiencing growth. Official data from the Ministry of Industry and Commerce reveals that in the first half of 2024, exports exceeded 2.4 million kilograms of carpets, valued at $8.7 million (USD). These Afghan carpets were shipped to various countries, including Pakistan, India, Austria, and the United States.
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Disparity in Profits for Weavers
However, the surge in exports has not translated into improved financial gains for the weavers themselves. Several weavers interviewed reported not receiving any share of the substantial profits, citing an instance where a carpet sold in Kazakhstan for $18,000 generated no additional income for those who crafted it.
Low Wages and Grueling Work Conditions
Within Afghanistan, carpets are sold at considerably lower prices, ranging from $100 to $150 per square meter. Driven by financial necessity to support their families and facing limited job alternatives, carpet weavers are often trapped in a cycle of low-wage labor.
The Reality of Daily Earnings
Weavers report earning approximately $27 per square meter of carpet produced, a process that typically requires a month of work. This translates to less than a dollar per day, despite arduous shifts lasting 10 to 12 hours. These long hours underscore the demanding nature of their work for meager compensation.
Employer Perspective on Wages
Nisar Ahmad Hassieni, who manages the Elmak Baft company and granted access to his workshops, stated that his company compensates weavers between $39 and $42 per square meter. He indicated that employees are paid bi-weekly and adhere to an eight-hour workday. This represents a slightly higher wage compared to weaver reports, yet the overall income remains modest in the context of the global market value of Afghan carpets.
Uncertain Future of Education for Girls
The Taliban has frequently asserted that girls will be permitted to resume their education once certain conditions are met, such as aligning the curriculum with Islamic principles. However, these promises have yet to materialize into concrete actions, leaving the future of girls’ education in Afghanistan uncertain.
Supporting Women Through Carpet Weaving
Mr. Hassieni explained that following the Taliban’s resurgence, his organization prioritized supporting women marginalized by the widespread closures and restrictions. “We established three workshops dedicated to carpet weaving and wool spinning,” he stated. “Our mission is to provide opportunities for these women.”
Export Markets for Afghan Carpets
He further detailed the export destinations for their products. “Approximately 50-60% of these carpets are exported to Pakistan, with the remaining portion shipped to China, the USA, Turkey, France, and Russia to satisfy international customer demand.” This demonstrates the global reach of Afghan carpet craftsmanship, even as the weavers face local economic challenges.
Personal Stories of Disrupted Lives and Resilience
Shakila, a 22-year-old weaver, shares a modest rented dwelling in Kabul’s impoverished Dasht-e Barchi district with her sisters, elderly parents, and three brothers. In one room of their home, they continue the carpet-making tradition that has become their lifeline.
From Aspiring Lawyer to Carpet Weaver
Shakila once harbored ambitions of becoming a lawyer, but now she leads her family’s carpet weaving endeavors. “We had no other viable options,” Shakila explained. “Alternative employment was simply unavailable.”
Intergenerational Skill and Necessity
She recounted learning to weave at the age of 10 from her father during his recovery from a car accident. What began as a coping mechanism during a difficult period has evolved into the family’s primary source of income and sustenance.
Shattered Dreams and Lost Schooling
Shakila’s 18-year-old sister, Samira, had aspirations of becoming a journalist, while Mariam, only 13, was compelled to discontinue her education before even exploring career possibilities. Prior to the Taliban’s return to power, all three sisters were students at Sayed al-Shuhada High School.
Impact of School Bombings and Withdrawal from Education
Their lives underwent irreversible change following the devastating bombings at their school in 2021, which resulted in 90 fatalities, predominantly young girls, and nearly 300 injuries. While the preceding government attributed the attack to the Taliban—an accusation the group denied—the fear of further violence prompted their father to withdraw them from school, prioritizing their safety over their education.
Hope Amidst Hardship and Trauma
Samira, who was present at the school during the attacks, continues to grapple with trauma. She speaks with a stutter and finds it challenging to articulate her thoughts. Despite these struggles, her longing to return to formal education remains strong.
Yearning for Education and a More Secure Environment
“I deeply desire to complete my education,” Samira expressed. “While the security landscape has improved under Taliban rule, with fewer suicide bombings, the schools remain closed. This closure compels us to work,” highlighting the difficult trade-off between safety concerns and educational deprivation.
Unbroken Spirits and Future Aspirations
Notwithstanding the meager wages and extended working hours, the resolve of some of these women remains undiminished. Back at one of the workshops, Salehe conveyed her determination and optimism, revealing her ongoing pursuit of English language studies for the past three years.
Commitment to Education Despite Restrictions
“Even with the closure of schools and universities, we refuse to abandon our education,” Salehe asserted, underscoring a resilient spirit of self-improvement and defiance against limitations.
Dreams of Service and Contribution
Looking to the future, Salehe shared her ambitious goal: to become a leading physician and establish the foremost hospital in Afghanistan, demonstrating a profound commitment to her community’s well-being and a refusal to let current circumstances extinguish her aspirations.