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Fashion Brand Reformation Faces Cultural Appropriation Accusations Over New Collection
Reformation, a clothing label popular among celebrities, recently launched a 20-piece collection in partnership with influencer and entrepreneur Devon Lee Carlson. This new line of apparel seemed poised to resonate with current style trends, featuring butter yellow hues, vintage-inspired patterns, and slim neck scarves. However, a particular breezy three-piece ensemble from this collection has ignited controversy, raising questions about the delineation between cultural influence and cultural appropriation within the fashion industry.
Outfit Resembling South Asian Lehenga Sparks Online Debate
The contentious outfit, composed of a light blue midi skirt, a flowing camisole, and a long, slender scarf, is priced around $400 and has drawn criticism for its striking similarity to a South Asian lehenga. Social media users have voiced concerns, questioning whether the brand appropriately acknowledged the cultural origins of the design.
Social Media Commentary Highlights Cultural Appropriation Concerns
Instagram comments on Reformation’s promotional posts for the collaboration are largely focused on accusations of appropriation. One comment criticized the design as being “directly South Asian” without any cultural acknowledgment. Furthermore, a TikTok video by actress Sai Ananda, based in Manhattan, has gained over 16,000 likes for juxtaposing the Reformation outfit with a still from an early 2000s Bollywood film. In the video, Ms. Ananda points out the “numerous resemblances” between the Reformation ensemble and a traditional lehenga worn in the movie.
Influencer and Brand Respond to Criticism
Ms. Ananda shared in a phone interview, “I strongly believe I could uncover images of myself and my friends from the early 2000s wearing comparable outfits at temple playgrounds.” She elaborated, “Drawing inspiration from diverse cultures is perfectly acceptable, but a certain degree of respect is necessary to avoid erasing cultural heritage.”
Devon Lee Carlson’s Inspiration and Reformation’s Statement
In a Forbes interview, Ms. Carlson explained that the collection is based on reimagined pieces from her personal wardrobe. She stated that this specific outfit was her interpretation of a vintage John Galliano dress gifted by her boyfriend’s mother. “It’s among my most treasured garments, too delicate to share directly, so I collaborated with Reformation to create a two-piece set inspired by it,” she clarified.
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Reformation, through a spokesperson in an emailed statement, acknowledged and respected “the basis of this critique, considering South Asian culture’s impact on Western fashion.” The brand asserted that “no article of clothing or fashion trend should be assessed in isolation, devoid of broader historical and cultural context.” Ms. Carlson did not provide further comments when requested.
Fashion Industry Expert Weighs In on Cultural Borrowing vs. Appropriation
Kestrel Jenkins, host of the “Conscious Chatter” podcast, which delves into sustainable and ethical fashion practices, offered her perspective in a phone interview. She noted that fashion, including high-fashion designers like Mr. Galliano, has historically incorporated diverse cultural aesthetics. However, Ms. Jenkins emphasized that proper credit and acknowledgment serve as crucial differentiators between legitimate cultural borrowing and cultural appropriation, particularly when brands in dominant positions repackage culturally inspired items at elevated prices.
Lack of Acknowledgment in Fast Fashion
“We currently exist in an especially peculiar period where the concept of credit has become increasingly disregarded as a fundamental aspect of business,” Ms. Jenkins commented. “Clothing items are produced and circulated at an unprecedented rate, and this accelerated pace diminishes the focus on detail and thoughtful consideration regarding the origins and implications of design choices.”
Building Frustration and Previous Incidents
The discontent among South Asian consumers extends beyond Reformation, fueled by past incidents, such as the “Scandinavian summer” episode involving the fashion rental company Bipty the previous year.
“Scandinavian Summer” Controversy and Bipty’s Apology
In a since-deleted TikTok video, a Bipty employee analyzed the trend of women draping scarves across their chests, a style reminiscent of the South Asian dupatta. The employee described the aesthetic as “very European, very classy,” and labeled it a “Scandinavian” style preference.
The ensuing backlash prompted an apology from Bipty founder Natalia Ohanesian, who conceded the look was “clearly not European” and stated her “teammate” did not intend to disrespect any communities. She conveyed sincere apologies to the South Asian communities who were offended.
Recurring Patterns: Oh Polly and Sharara Resemblance
Despite the apology, the Bipty incident inspired parodies where South Asian women humorously showcased traditional attire, mockingly calling them “Scandinavian summer dresses.” More recently, British brand Oh Polly faced similar criticism last month after posting a TikTok video of a new dress that South Asian commenters identified as bearing a strong resemblance to a sharara, another traditional outfit.
Power Dynamics and Perceptions in Fashion
Ms. Jenkins asserted that these occurrences highlight a persistent tension in fashion, where the perceived value of clothing varies depending on the wearer.
Differential Perception Based on Wearer
She illustrated, “Consider the Reformation outfit worn by affluent women – the ‘ladies who lunch.’ Envision the perception of that item. Now, imagine the identical garment worn by an Indigenous individual. The perception could be drastically different. This disparity unequivocally demonstrates underlying power dynamics at play.”