I ate at celeb chef's new restaurant in one of UK's best places to live

Importance Score: 45 / 100 🔵

Restaurant Li-Ly: Is Aiden Byrne’s Knutsford Venture a Michelin Star Contender?

Manchester’s evolving culinary scene has long been observed by critics, especially concerning the prestigious Michelin Star. For over 25 years, seasoned lifestyle editor Dianne Bourne has covered the city’s gastronomic landscape, learning that predicting the elusive Michelin Guide inspectors is an impossible task. These inspectors meticulously and discreetly assess the finest restaurants, annually announcing their verdicts on establishments worthy of the coveted Michelin Star, a top culinary accolade.

Manchester endured four decades as a Michelin star ‘desert,’ but now boasts two establishments with the honour: Mana in Ancoats and Skof on Federation Street. This pursuit of Michelin stars, according to Dianne, gained traction around 2014 when two celebrated, Michelin-decorated chefs revealed plans to launch refined dining venues in the city, sparking speculation that Manchester city centre might finally secure a Star. The BBC capitalized on this narrative, creating a documentary series following the chefs and their teams, a venture some considered excessively dramatic.

Aiden Byrne’s Culinary Journey: From “Restaurant Wars” to Restaurant Li-Ly

The documentary series, titled “Restaurant Wars: The Battle for Manchester,” chronicled Simon Rogan’s establishment of his restaurant at The French, Midland Hotel, and Aiden Byrne’s, renowned as the youngest chef ever awarded a Michelin Star, launch of Manchester House in Spinningfields, in collaboration with the late Tim Bacon.

Despite the intense scrutiny, neither chef initially secured a star. Dianne recounts this history as context for her recent visit to Aiden Byrne’s latest venture, Restaurant Li-Ly.

Knutsford Charm and Restaurant Ambiance

Dianne noted that Byrne seems to be cooking with freedom and confidence, prioritizing exceptional dining experiences over Michelin recognition. “He’s cooking like a man who really couldn’t care less if Michelin approve of him or not because he knows, and anyone who dines there knows, this is really something special.”

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Approaching Aiden Byrne’s Restaurant Li-Ly along Knutsford’s picturesque King Street, lined with period cottages, evokes a sense of stepping back in time. Arriving at the restaurant for dinner further amplifies this historical immersion.

Historic Setting and Modern Design

Aiden and his wife Sarah undertook the project of transforming the Grade II listed, 400-year-old timber-framed building at 48 King Street. Through a Crowdfunder initiative, they converted the space into Restaurant Li-Ly, a unique, multi-level dining area. The white-washed interiors blend modern aesthetics with the building’s ancient charm.

Dianne’s Saturday evening visit afforded her a window seat, providing a prime spot for observing the Knutsford scene.

Fine Dining Tasting Menus at Restaurant Li-Ly

Restaurant Li-Ly offers seasonal fine dining menus, with evening tasting experiences priced at £90. The set tasting menus are thoughtfully designed to accommodate various dietary requirements, including shellfish-free, gluten-free, and vegetarian options. A reduced selection tasting menu is available at lunchtime for £60. While acknowledging the price point, Dianne suggests the experience justifies the cost.

Culinary Highlights: Sweetcorn Macaroons to Yukon Gold Dessert

Dianne’s culinary journey at Restaurant Li-Ly commenced with an innovative start: sweetcorn macaroons. Despite initial reservations about the combination, the dish, featuring a savory-sweet profile with cured scallop, white chocolate, and bergamot ganache, proved to be “genius.”

The subsequent course featured Field 28 New Season Carrots, sourced locally from Warrington. Dianne praised Byrne’s culinary artistry, noting his ability to transform vegetables into a “delicacy,” describing the carrots as “shards of crystal joy.”

Michelin inspectors reportedly prioritize exceptional fresh bread, and Restaurant Li-Ly certainly delivers. A standout course, personally presented by Aiden Byrne, is a large, glistening orb of buttermilk bread, adorned with generous shavings of Yorkshire pecorino cheese.

This “dreamy bread” was accompanied by a visually stunning plate of St Helena cheese mousse, complemented by creamed morel mushrooms and a delicate wafer. Dianne described the meal as a succession of “joyful” dishes, each offering “an education of flavours.”

Following these courses, Dianne enjoyed delicately butter-poached cod and a substantial herb-fed chicken dish.

Dessert presented further “revelations” with a unique creation described as coffee, mushroom, and Yukon Gold. This unconventional sweet dish was unlike anything Dianne had previously tasted and left her wanting more. She declared it “without doubt one of the best meals I’ve eaten in the past year.”

Exceptional Service and Chef’s Vision

Service throughout the meal was noted as exceptionally friendly, with waiting staff in casual aprons and t-shirts, creating a relaxed and unpretentious atmosphere.

Dianne expressed her gratitude to chef Aiden Byrne for the “exceptional food.” Byrne shared his perspective, stating: “I’ve always served food that other people want me to do to some extent, but now I’m cooking what I want to cook,” highlighting his current culinary vision and freedom.

Restaurant Li-Ly: A Standout Dining Destination

Dianne’s resounding verdict is that Restaurant Li-Ly is an exceptional establishment. Having recently dined at Manchester’s Michelin Star restaurants, Mana and Skof, she asserted that Restaurant Li-Ly “stands at their level.”

Dianne concluded that if Michelin inspectors fail to recognize Restaurant Li-Ly, it would be “their loss.”


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