Celebrity Chefs Gather at Andre Soltner Memorial

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Culinary World Celebrates the Legacy of Chef André Soltner

New York, NY – Family, friends, and culinary luminaries gathered in Manhattan on Saturday afternoon to celebrate the life of André Soltner, the esteemed French chef and restaurateur. Despite Soltner’s famed frugality, the memorial honoring the late Lutèce restaurant founder was a grand affair, reflecting his monumental influence on the world of fine dining.

A Grand Celebration of a Culinary Icon

Guests at 583 Park Avenue were greeted by a 16-piece orchestra performing classical pieces from Handel and Bach, setting an elegant tone for the afternoon. The cathedral-sized ballroom was adorned with apricot and yellow floral arrangements, and a vast crystal chandelier illuminated a distinguished gathering of chefs in their white uniforms. They were there to pay tribute to Soltner, the man whose restaurant, Lutèce, was revered as a cornerstone of French cuisine in America and who served as a mentor and inspiration for many.

Notable Figures in Attendance

The memorial service drew an array of culinary stars:

• Daniel Boulud, celebrated chef of the Michelin-starred Daniel, and fellow Frenchman of Soltner
• Thomas Keller, renowned chef behind Per Se and The French Laundry
• Danny Meyer, acclaimed restaurateur of Gramercy Tavern and Shake Shack
• Celebrity chef Tom Colicchio
• Jacques Pépin, an 89-year-old contemporary of Soltner, who honored the occasion in his chef’s attire

The sheer concentration of culinary talent present was a testament to Soltner’s impact.

Remembering Lutèce: A Home for French Cuisine

Daniel Boulud fondly recalled Lutèce, located in a cozy townhouse on East 50th Street, which Soltner transformed into a premier destination for French dining after its inception in 1961 until its closure in 2004. “Lutèce was not an extravagant place,” Boulud noted, “It had a welcoming bistro ambiance, creating a sense of home.”

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Soltner’s Journey: From Chef to Mentor

Soltner began his journey at Lutèce as head chef, eventually acquiring full ownership from his partner, Andre Surmain, in 1973. He remained a steadfast presence until selling the restaurant in 1994 to Ark Restaurants, after which he transitioned to academia, becoming a dean at the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan.

Lutèce’s Legacy and Soltner’s Personal Life

André and his wife Simone, who passed away in 2016, resided above Lutèce. The restaurant became a magnet for prominent figures like Henry Kissinger, Marilyn Monroe, and Mick Jagger. A slideshow at the memorial showcased photographs of appreciative notes from notable patrons throughout the years, eliciting admiration and fond recollection from the attendees.

A Life in Pictures

A large screen displayed images spanning Soltner’s life, from his youth in the Alsace region of France to his influential years at Lutèce and later as an educator. Many photographs included Maryvonne Gasparini, his partner of eight years, highlighting his consistent, joyful smile.

Tributes and Anecdotes

Glenn W. Dopf, a longtime friend, remarked, “I have yet to encounter a photograph where André didn’t appear happy.” Dopf and pastry chef Jacques Torres served as emcees for the memorial. The program featured heartfelt speeches from Boulud, Keller, and Rodrigo Campos, a chef who was mentored by Soltner after meeting him as a 16-year-old building cleaner in New York.

A Lasting Impact on Aspiring Chefs

Campos recounted expressing his culinary aspirations to Soltner, who readily mentored the young man, enabling him to attend culinary school. Campos is now the executive chef at Boulud’s Centurion New York restaurant, a testament to Soltner’s generous spirit.

“He asked for nothing in return,” Campos emphasized regarding Soltner’s kindness.

Anne Vandevoorde, Soltner’s niece, shared personal memories of her “tonton,” acknowledging, “Having no children was a source of sadness, but you have been a father to many.”

Bill Peet, executive chef at Tavern on the Green and a Lutèce veteran of 15 years, shared an anecdote illustrating Soltner’s dedication, recalling a time when his former boss returned to dinner service the same day as his knee surgery.

“André was the example,” Peet stated. “He was always present.”

A Farewell Feast and Alsatian Homage

As guests moved to a lower level for lunch, a band performing Alsatian music, a nod to Soltner’s heritage, played “La Marseillaise.” Ushers from the Frank E. Campbell funeral home guided attendees, including Martha Stewart and chef David Burke, to the luncheon.

A Culinary Repast Fit for a Legend

The luncheon offered an exceptional array of culinary creations, far from a typical post-service meal. Stations featured smoked mushrooms by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, bacon tarte flambeé by Gabriel Kreuther, and bonbons by Jacques Torres.

Pépin: The Elder Statesman

Jacques Pépin’s table became a focal point, where younger chefs like Keller and Boulud gathered to converse with the revered culinary figure, as plates from various food stations were brought to him.

“André would be very unhappy with all the waste,” Pépin quipped, gesturing to a partially eaten plate of smoked salmon crêpe. Dopf had earlier recalled Soltner’s renowned frugality, including saving wine corks for wobbly tables and placing burned-out light bulbs in the freezer, believing cold could revive them.

Soltner: The Chef’s Chef

In a gathering of celebrated chefs, André Soltner stood as the archetype.

“He was very much [a celebrity chef],” Boulud reflected, “But he disliked the attention. André was humble.”

Boulud characterized his friend’s cooking as honest and unpretentious.

“André didn’t need caviar, truffle, or foie gras to demonstrate his culinary skill,” Boulud stated, before enthusiastically describing favorite dishes: mussel soup, pheasant with braised cabbage, and soufflé.

“Simple and simply perfect,” Boulud concluded. “He transformed New York into his village, and everyone gathered at his table.”

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