These Jackets Are Fire

Importance Score: 12 / 100 🟠

While fashion trends often hinge on subtle details, the current focus is on a more pronounced feature: the distinctive clasps of the firefighter jacket. Emerging as a notable spring jacket trend, this adaptation of the chore coat—typically featuring three or four pockets—is defined by its substantial metal fastenings in lieu of buttons, creating both a unique aesthetic and a subtle, rhythmic sound.

The firefighter jacket‘s ascent in popularity is underscored by endorsements from figures like Adrien Brody and offerings from influential brands like Supreme, which markets a high-end cowhide version. Brands such as Ronning are also targeting early adopters with more affordable options, and interest is growing in the vintage outerwear market, where these jackets are increasingly sought after.

The Appeal of the Clasp

The allure of the firefighter jacket extends beyond mere aesthetics. The metal clasps offer a tactile and auditory satisfaction, functioning almost as a fidget toy or an ASMR trigger. The distinct click of the clasps fastening provides a subtle sensory experience.

Historical Roots

While the ASMR association might be recent, the firefighter jacket itself has a longer history. References to metal-clasp “fireman’s jackets” date back to at least 1979, highlighting the garment’s functional origins and durable design, intended to withstand harsh conditions and provide ease of use for gloved hands in emergency situations.

It’s worth noting that while vintage firefighter jackets are gaining traction, authentic used firefighter jackets are generally not recommended for purchase due to potential contamination and odor issues.

1990s Popularity and Ralph Lauren’s Influence

Jackets featuring prominent clasps gained mainstream traction in the 1990s through brands like Liz Claiborne, Isaac Mizrahi, and Structure. However, Ralph Lauren became most synonymous with this style. Notably, Liam Gallagher of Oasis was photographed wearing a Ralph Lauren color-blocked firefighter jacket in 1994, images of which remain widely circulated.

According to vintage retailer Matt Roberge, Ralph Lauren significantly enhanced the wearability of these jackets. Roberge currently offers vintage Polo firefighter jackets in denim and washed-blue, demonstrating the enduring appeal of the Ralph Lauren interpretation.

Contemporary Interpretations and the Barn Coat Trend

Designer Sigurd Bank, founder of Mfpen, drew inspiration from vintage fireman’s jackets when creating the updated version worn by Adrien Brody. Mfpen’s now-sold-out design featured washed denim, corduroy panels, and authentic Italian clasps, highlighting a modern take on the classic garment.

The resurgence of the firefighter jacket aligns with the broader trend of workwear-inspired outerwear, particularly the popularity of barn coats. The fashion industry has widely embraced barn coats, with collaborations and high-end designer versions proliferating.

However, fashion observer Jalil Johnson notes a “barn coat fatigue,” suggesting a desire for alternatives. While considering duffle coats, Johnson acknowledged firefighter jackets as a compelling option, offering a similar yet distinct style.

Johnson highlights the hardware as the key differentiator: “It is a continuation of all these jackets we’ve seen, but it’s more interesting because of the hardware,” emphasizing the clasps’ unique appeal within the wider workwear trend.

The Subtle Charm of Differentiation

In the nuanced world of micro-trends, the firefighter jacket‘s appeal may lie in its subtle distinction. As product designer Kiyana Salkeld, owner of firefighter coats from Brut, states, “It goes no deeper than ‘I like these clasps,’” underscoring the hardware as a primary driver of attraction.

Salkeld notes the jacket’s easy integration into existing wardrobes, comparing it to the barn coat in terms of versatility but appreciating the unique clasp detail. She describes the clasps as “sturdy and reassuring but not so heavy as to distract,” highlighting a balance of functionality and subtle style.

Ultimately, for many, the firefighter jacket offers “a slightly different version of the same thing that you had previously,” providing a fresh take on familiar outerwear styles.


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