Is It Time to Trade My Rolex for a Smart Watch?

Importance Score: 35 / 100 🔵

Are Classic Watches Still Relevant in the Age of Smartwatches?


“All of my acquaintances are sporting smartwatches. I am astounded that a centuries-old custom is being supplanted by a device resembling a computer. However, by opting out, am I labeling myself as a technology skeptic? What is the significance of wearing a classic watch in today’s world?” — Gustavo, Mexico City

Going back to 2015, I was, surprisingly, an early adopter of the Apple Watch. (This was a time when Apple still envisioned the smartwatch as a potential fashion accessory.) Perhaps less surprisingly, I was also an early adopter of *not* using the Apple Watch. I disliked the appearance of having a gadget on my wrist and found it worryingly easy to become fixated on, and sidetracked by, daily stand notifications. So, I understand your perspective.

Nevertheless, as smartwatches have progressed from those initial, ineffective attempts to establish themselves in the realm of style and have gained traction as fitness and wellness instruments, their popularity has, understandably, increased. Currently, most of my friends, similar to yours, wear a fitness tracker, a smartwatch, or an Oura ring, leading to frequent discussions about not only steps taken but also sleep patterns, heart rates, and blood oxygen saturation.

However, the reality is that while smartwatches may perform different functions on their wrist compared to traditional watches, they share at least one crucial similarity.

The Semiology of Wristwear: What Your Watch Says About You

As my colleague Jacob Bernstein, a known watch enthusiast, observed, “All watches, in some way, are a statement.” This holds true for a Rolex, a Patek Philippe, a Swatch, or an Apple Watch. They all contribute to the semiology of the wrist — meaning their fundamental role is to communicate specific attributes of the wearer to the world.

For instance, a Rolex might signal initial success and ambition, while an Audemars Piguet could convey a bold, unapologetic flair, or a Patek Philippe might represent the understated luxury recognized by a select few. Alternatively, a watch could represent a narrative about a family member who bequeathed the timepiece. In the case of a smartwatch, it suggests prioritizing health and data acquisition above all else.

Certainly, the age of a timepiece—whether it is new or vintage—must be considered, as each choice communicates something about connections, connoisseurship, and the wearer’s desire for gratification (either delayed or immediate). Furthermore, the material is significant. Steel carries different connotations than gold, which differs from leather. Similar to smartwatches, the selection of bands and whether one opts for Hermès, stainless steel, or plastic also influences the message. But you grasp the concept.

The key point is that regardless of the watch style you choose, you are expressing your adherence to a particular value system and worldview, and this expression is visible to everyone.

Balancing Tradition and Technology: Wearing Both Smart and Classic Watches

This might explain why many individuals own both a smartwatch and a classic watch (or, depending on their finances and investment priorities, an entire watch collection). Although there was a period when wearing two watches simultaneously was emerging as a trend — Prince William, for instance, was once seen wearing a classic watch on one wrist and a smartwatch on the other — it now appears to be more about selecting the appropriate watch for the occasion or context.

Ultimately, whatever timepiece you decide on, it’s essential to recognize that in terms of the message it conveys, timekeeping is the least significant aspect.

Your Style Inquiries Addressed

Each week in Open Thread, Vanessa responds to a reader’s fashion-related inquiry, which can be submitted via email or Twitter. Questions are edited for clarity and length.


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