Vineyards in NY wine country push sustainability as they adapt to climate change

Importance Score: 72 / 100 🔴

PENN YAN, N.Y. — A decade ago, Scott Osborn would have enthusiastically urged prospective vineyard owners to “jump into it” and join the burgeoning wine industry. Now, his advice has shifted dramatically due to the increasing challenges in **Finger Lakes winemaking**, including climate change, shifting consumer preferences, and political uncertainties like tariffs.

Navigating Uncertainty in the Finger Lakes Wine Industry

“You’re crazy,” now says Osborn, the proprietor of Fox Run Vineyards, a sprawling 50-acre farm situated on Seneca Lake, the largest of New York’s Finger Lakes.

Cultivating grapes in this prominent New York winemaking area is becoming an increasingly risky endeavor. Harvests like Osborn’s are progressively threatened by erratic weather patterns induced by climate change. Shifting consumer attitudes toward wine, along with political tensions such as tariffs enacted during President Donald Trump’s trade conflicts and the administration’s relaxation of environmental regulations, also present significant challenges.

Despite these hurdles, numerous **winegrowers are adopting sustainable practices**, aiming to contribute to the mitigation of global warming while adapting to the evolving climate.

The Allure of Finger Lakes Wineries

The Finger Lakes region, encompassing a significant portion of western New York, features waters that shimmer with a sapphire hue on clear days. Over 130 wineries punctuate the shorelines, offering some of America’s most distinguished white wines.

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At Fox Run Vineyards, visitors can sample wines and purchase a bottle or two. Many are loyal customers, like Michele Magda and her spouse, who regularly travel from Pennsylvania.

“This is like a little escape, a little getaway,” she remarked.

Climate Change Impacts on Vineyards

Typically, bud break occurs in spring, yielding vibrant grapes ranging from the deep blues of Cabernet Franc to the pale greens of Riesling, the region’s most popular variety. However, a warming climate is causing earlier bud break, increasing unpredictability and potential risks for growers. A frost following bud break can devastate much of the harvest, highlighting the importance of **sustainable agriculture techniques**.

Consistent rainfall and warmer nighttime temperatures differentiate the Finger Lakes from its West Coast counterparts, according to Paul Brock, a viticulture and wine technology professor at Finger Lakes Community College. Adapting to these variations has given local winemakers a competitive edge.

Globally, vineyards are confronting the effects of increasingly volatile weather. In France, unprecedented rainfall and severe weather have created difficulties for winegrowers. Along the West Coast, destructive wildfires are degrading wine quality.

Winegrowers Embracing Sustainability

Many **Finger Lakes winegrowers** are actively implementing sustainable practices to combat climate change, which is driven by the combustion of gasoline, coal, and natural gas.

Farms can pursue certification through programs like the New York Sustainable Winegrowing initiative. Fox Run, along with over 50 others, has achieved certification, which necessitates improvements in soil health and water quality protection for nearby lakes.

Beyond Fox Run’s entrance, some of Osborn’s sustainability efforts are evident.

• Hundreds of solar panels supply 90% of the farm’s electricity.
• Underground fungal networks insulate crops from drought and disease.

“We all have to do something,” Osborn stated.

The Struggle for Sustainability at Hunt Country Vineyards

For Suzanne Hunt and her family’s 7th-generation vineyard, addressing climate change involves a deep commitment to sustainability.

Hunt Country Vineyards, located along Keuka Lake, has adopted strategies such as underground geothermal pipelines for heating and cooling, as well as composting. Despite these progressive measures, climate change is compelling the family to make difficult choices about their future.

Recent severe frosts have resulted in “catastrophic” crop losses. The vineyard also faces evolving consumer tastes as U.S. wine consumption has declined in recent years, as reported by the Wine Institute.

By the end of this year, the vineyard will cease wine production and focus on hosting community workshops and selling certain grape varieties.

“The farm and the vineyard, you know, it’s part of me,” Hunt explained. “I’ll let the people whose dream and life is to make wine do that part, and I’ll happily support them.”

Tariffs and U.S. Policy Changes

Vinny Aliperti, the owner of Billsboro Winery on Seneca Lake, is dedicated to improving the wine industry’s environmental impact. He recently helped establish communal wine bottle recycling bins to prevent glass from entering landfills and repurpose it for construction materials.

However, Aliperti hopes to see greater participation in sustainability efforts from nearby wineries and vineyards. The wine industry’s long-term viability depends on it, particularly with a presidential administration that does not prioritize sustainability, he noted.

“I think we’re all a bit scared, frankly, a bit, I mean, depressed,” he admitted. “I don’t see very good things coming out of the next four years in terms of the environment.”

Osborn anticipates significant cuts to federal environmental policies that previously facilitated funding for sustainability initiatives. Tax credits for Osborn’s solar panels covered approximately half of the $400,000 in initial costs, in addition to state and federal grants. Osborn aims to expand his solar production but lacks sufficient funding without these programs.

Fox Run could also lose substantial revenue due to retaliatory tariffs and boycotts of American wine by Canadian customers. In March, Canada imposed 25% tariffs on $30 billion worth of U.S. goods, including wine.

Osborn worries about competing with larger wine-producing states like California, which may flood the American market to compensate for lost international sales. Smaller vineyards in the Finger Lakes may not withstand these economic pressures.

Back at Fox Run’s barrel room, Aric Bryant, a long-time customer, says the challenges faced by the Finger Lakes wine industry only strengthen his support for New York wines.

“I have this, like, fierce loyalty,” he said. “I go to restaurants around here and if they don’t have Finger Lakes wines on their menu, I’m like, ‘What are you even doing serving wine?’”

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