Travellers have been bathing at this spa town for 3,000 years. What's it like in 2025?

Importance Score: 30 / 100 🔵

Basking on buoyant floats, I meander through the vaporous outdoor pool at Terme di Saturnia, a distinguished resort nestled in southern Tuscany. These very sulfuric thermal waters once served as a restorative sanctuary for Roman soldiers seeking respite from battle.

Two millennia later, the celebrated therapeutic virtues of these waters persist. Today, brochures highlight their myorelaxant and hepatic cell activity, moving beyond their ancient reputation for healing war wounds.

It is captivating to consider that as far back as the 8th century BC, the Etruscans revered these waters as sacred, a sentiment echoed by Pope Clement III in an official papal decree in 1188.

Presently, the resort, the breathtaking natural hot springs nearby, and the surrounding rolling hills dotted with cypress trees have solidified their status as a premier natural wellness destination in Italy.

Across an extended weekend, visitors can immerse themselves in a wealth of minerals within diverse pools, embark on a trek to a village with mythical origins, and revitalize with hearty Tuscan cuisine.

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Saturnia’s Legendary Thermal Waters in Italy

As you proceed along the path to Cascate del Mulino, the famed natural thermal water pools remain hidden by foliage, yet a dense mist ascends into the crisp air, evoking the image of a smoldering fire.

Upon turning a bend, the effervescent, milky blue cascades come into full view. Beneath a modest stone edifice on the slope, a sequence of pristine white calciferous terraces descends, with the steaming water pooling in each basin before overflowing to the levels below.

The thermal water of Saturnia is abundant in bioplankton.

The waterfall exhibits an ethereal quality, seemingly supernatural according to local lore. The area’s designation, Saturnia, originates from Saturn, the deity credited with crafting this geologically wondrous setting.

Legend recounts that Saturn, frustrated by humanity’s perpetual conflicts, unleashed a thunderbolt that struck the earth, causing a surge of scalding water said to possess the power to soothe and pacify those who immerse themselves within it.

Saturn’s miraculous hot springs offer complimentary access for bathing, with a nearby café and eatery providing robe rentals and changing facilities. For a serene experience, arrive at dawn to witness the sunrise paint the misty, vaporous waters in hues of orange and pink, and to avoid the daytime crowds.

Terme di Saturnia: An Acclaimed Wellness Resort in Tuscany

The same revitalizing waters enrich the pools of the distinguished five-star Terme di Saturnia resort, conveniently located a mere 15-minute stroll from Cascate del Mulino.

Established in 1919, the hotel reignited the tradition of bathing in these thermal waters for their therapeutic properties. The acclaimed resort has since broadened its offerings to encompass diverse treatment programs and adjacent health amenities, ranging from cryotherapy to specialized Pilates sessions.

The 37.5°c water is central to the hotel’s wellness focus. Replete with bioplankton – a deep green, gelatinous algae – alongside amino acids, magnesium, and potassium, it fills an expansive outdoor pool (naturally replenished approximately six times daily), as well as cascading showers, whirlpools, and jacuzzis distributed throughout the grounds.

The remedial waters also fill the pools of the five-star Terme di Saturnia resort, easily accessible from Cascate del Mulino.

Bathing in these waters is purported to enhance mobility, alleviate inflammation, boost metabolism, and facilitate digestion. Guests can even sample a glass of this curative liquid at breakfast – a recommendation for the adventurous, perhaps with nostrils gently pinched.

To amplify the wellness advantages of your bathing routine, explore sessions within the saunas, argillarium, hay room, and alternating hot and cold plunges of the Kneipp Path.

These amenities are all inclusive within the room rate, with options to augment your experience with olive oil and basil leaf spa treatments, cryotherapy, naturopathy consultations, and medical evaluations for an extra charge.

Culinary Delights: Cheese, Truffle, and Steak in Saturnia

Wellness and self-care pursuits can stimulate the appetite, making a hearty breakfast essential. Start your day with an array of local cured meats and cheeses, eggs prepared to your preference, and a generous selection of fresh fruits and vegetables ready to be freshly squeezed at the juicing station.

Opting for the half-board package also includes dinner at one of three distinctive dining venues.

La Stellata, a chic countryside trattoria, is a brief drive away. Within its rooms featuring stone walls and terracotta tiling, you can savor refined classic dishes such as Chianina beef tartare accompanied by egg yolk, delicate tagliolini pasta enriched with white truffle shavings, and the signature Fiorentina steak (minimum one kilogram), expertly grilled over an open charcoal flame.

Bathing in the water is believed to enhance mobility, reduce inflammation and stimulate metabolism.

The refined 1919 restaurant, situated in the resort’s main building, features a conservatory with views of the misty outdoor pool.

Their artfully presented dishes offer modern interpretations of classic recipes, such as chicken liver pâté with caramelized onions and blueberry bread crisps, potato dumplings filled with wild boar in a savory sage butter sauce, and risotto incorporating Etruscan cheese and rich brown stock.

In the Library, guests can unwind in plush armchairs by the fireplace and relish a pre-dinner cocktail or enjoy midday light bites like a burger composed of local beef and pecorino cheese at tables adjacent to expansive windows overlooking the pool.

Exploring the Ancient Saturnia Village

Linked also to the Saturn myth is a mountaintop village, a leisurely 30-minute walk from the resort. Originally founded in prehistoric times, it was initially called Aurinia, named after the Etruscan water deity, which the Romans subsequently renamed Saturnia, mirroring the present town’s appellation.

A rugged path traversing vineyards and woodlands culminates at the Porta Romana archway, beneath which a segment of the ancient Via Clodia, bearing grooves from centuries of cartwheels, still runs.

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This village formerly served as a resting point for Roman soldiers en route back to Rome from battle, where they would partake in the restorative waters.

Today, visitors can savor local white wine at cafes in the tree-lined piazza and acquire traditional regional products, including pici pasta and crispy cantucci biscuits, from the local delicatessen.

Saturnia extends its wellness offerings beyond physical treatments with its own unique form of therapy: the exceptionally friendly local cats who are known to readily curl up on your lap given the chance.


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