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The Ascendancy of Beige: How Neutral Tones Became the New Symbol of Luxury
In bygone eras, affluence was often displayed through vibrant colors – indigo, crimson, and royal purple signified wealth and status. However, times have shifted. Today, among the world’s elite, the favored palette leans towards the understated and unassuming: beige. This subtle shift in sartorial preference speaks volumes in an age of evolving luxury.
The Beige Trend Emerges in Exclusive Enclaves
Lindsey Woodcock, a luxury travel consultant, first noticed this beige phenomenon in St. Moritz, Switzerland, a renowned Alpine destination favored by the affluent. Living part-time in this exclusive resort town, she observed a significant change in the fashion landscape.
“It becomes strikingly apparent,” Ms. Woodcock noted, having residences also in London and Sun Valley, Idaho. “Groups of individuals are consistently seen adorned in shades of cream, beige, or off-white.”
Against a backdrop of growing anti-establishment sentiment across both the United States and Europe, St. Moritz’s exclusive circles have embraced muted, neutral tones. This trend is visible throughout the locale, from luxury retailers like the cashmere boutique Lamm to the opulent Badrutt’s Palace Hotel lobby and the terrace of the Paradiso restaurant, overlooking the picturesque Engadine Valley.
Why Beige? Discretion over Display
Alessandro Sartori, artistic director at Ermenegildo Zegna, the prestigious Italian fashion house known for dressing corporate leaders and tech innovators, offered insight into this trend. “The ultra-wealthy prioritize discretion, and beige hues effectively serve this purpose,” Mr. Sartori explained from Milan. “This demographic values subtlety and avoids ostentation.”
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The Spectrum of Subtlety: Beige and its Variations
To embody fashionable affluence, Mr. Sartori suggests embracing the muted colors reminiscent of baby food, biscuits, or digital screens – shades like latte, oatmeal, cream, butterscotch, and café au lait.
“The aesthetic operates within a restrained tonal range – stylish, yet consciously avoiding excessive attention,” he elaborated.
André de Farias, a Brazilian entrepreneur who winters in the Swiss resort, views these calming tones – serene, luxurious, and inoffensive – as reflective of the ultrarich’s broader values. “This is a group that prioritizes quality over quantity, and authenticity over pretension,” Mr. de Farias stated via email. “It signifies a mature form of luxury that does not seek external approval.”
From Loud Hues to Quiet Statements
While vibrant colors once signaled wealth, a predilection for understated shades has now become a “declaration of luxury and influence,” according to Filippo Ricci, creative director of Stefano Ricci, a Florence-based purveyor of high-end menswear.
“If a client desires a crocodile chair resembling a throne, we can certainly accommodate that,” Mr. Ricci mentioned. However, even among this clientele, he has observed a stylistic evolution. “My intuition suggests color will eventually resurface,” he said. “Nevertheless, currently, beige reigns supreme.”
The “Zillionaire Ragamuffin” Aesthetic
Certain members within elite circles have embraced a related fashion approach: deliberately dressing down. Notably, Rolf Sachs, heir to substantial industrial fortunes and owner of the exclusive Dracula Club in St. Moritz, and his partner, German fashion designer Princess Mafalda of Hesse, favor what could be termed a “zillionaire ragamuffin” look.
Muted Style: A Contrast to Historical Display
Whether it encompasses the ready-to-wear parkas and well-worn jeans favored by Sachs and Hesse on the slopes, or the pale sable capes donned by others while ordering truffle pizza at Langosteria restaurant, the current understated style adopted by the wealthy presents a stark contrast to historical norms.
During the Spanish colonial era, for example, a carmine dye developed by the Aztec and Mayan civilizations (derived from an insect feeding on prickly pear cacti) became a global commodity, as prized as silver. Cochineal was crucial for producing the rich crimson of royal garments and cardinals’ robes. Color itself was a powerful indicator of wealth. Common people typically wore clothing in the natural shades of local plants or animal hides.
A Recent Shift in Fashion Perception
Fashion historian Caroline Rennolds Milbank notes that the departure from vibrant colors as status symbols is relatively recent. “In the 19th and early 20th centuries, the very affluent would have avoided practical attire,” Ms. Milbank explained. “Beige was associated with work clothes and the plainest, most functional garments.”
Pantone’s Prediction: “Mocha Mousse” and the Enduring Appeal of Neutrals
Reflecting this move toward muted tones among the wealthy, the Pantone Color Institute has announced “mocha mousse” as its 2025 Color of the Year. Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the institute, stated that the Pantone committee chose this shade based on the feelings of “comfort, indulgence, and subtle elegance” it evokes. “In color/word association exercises, creams, taupes, and camels signify durability, heritage, longevity, and security,” she added.
Economic Uncertainty and Khaki Camouflage
Amid global market volatility, the wealthiest individuals are adopting a khaki-toned camouflage. Beige shades, according to Robert H. Frank, retired economics professor at Cornell University and author of “Luxury Fever: Why Money Fails to Satisfy in an Era of Excess,” project a specific message. “Bright, loud colors are unnecessary to assert one’s presence,” he said. “Substantial resources are implied. There’s no need for overt displays.”
Brunello Cucinelli: A Pioneer of Understated Elegance
Consider Brunello Cucinelli, the Italian fashion magnate and long-time advocate for understated style.
“Just last week, my family and I went skiing, and all our ski attire was beige, brown, Panama,” Mr. Cucinelli shared from his home in Solomeo, Italy. “Without sounding boastful, when I initially introduced these colors – a Panama corduroy suit, ecru winter jackets – people remarked, ‘Only the Pope could wear these colors!’”
The Wisdom of Understatement
“It may sound immodest,” he continued, “but I believe I played a small role in this color transition.”
And if an increasing number of affluent individuals have suddenly embraced these shades as an integral part of their wardrobe, it reflects their astute sensibility.
“Essentially,” Mr. Cucinelli concluded, “it demonstrates their intelligence.”