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Raf’s: Manhattan’s Discreet Culinary Haven for the Fashion Elite
In the heart of downtown Manhattan, nestled on a quaint block of Elizabeth Street, Raf’s, a French-Italian bakery and restaurant, has emerged as a favored destination for the fashion cognoscenti. Catharine Dahm, a Parisian fashion designer, recently discovered the allure of this New York eatery, declaring it her new regular haunt after just one visit. Its understated elegance and European café ambiance provide a refreshing contrast to the city’s more overtly trendy scenes, drawing in a discerning clientele from the worlds of fashion, design, and media.
A Low-Profile Refuge for Style Setters
Unlike its more conspicuous neighbors, such as the celebrity-frequented Jean’s and Zero Bond, or the perpetually buzzing Sant Ambroeus, Raf’s cultivates an atmosphere of refined subtlety. Inheriting the legacy of Parisi Bakery, a long-standing supplier to renowned city restaurants, Raf’s has quietly become a chic yet approachable sanctuary where fashion industry figures can gather both professionally and socially.
Thriving Amidst Culinary Hotspots
Despite its proximity to celebrated and sought-after restaurants – including Estela, Emilio’s Ballato, and Torrisi – Raf’s has carved out its niche as an exclusive meeting place for the fashion crowd while maintaining a relatively low profile, particularly on social media platforms.
i-D Magazine Celebration and Industry Gathering Place
Last week, Raf’s played host to an intimate dinner celebrating the launch of i-D magazine’s latest iteration under new ownership. Among the esteemed guests joining editor in chief Thom Bettridge and Karlie Kloss were model Devyn Garcia, stylist Stella Greenspan, and fashion designer Raul Lopez of Luar, underscoring the restaurant’s role as a fashion industry hub.
“Having grown up in New York,” commented Mr. Bettridge, a regular patron since its inception, “Raf’s evokes the ambiance of iconic ’90s restaurants – a vibrant yet familiar feeling, reminiscent of Odeon or Pastis.”
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Luxury e-commerce giant Net-a-Porter, Cultured magazine, and fashion label Proenza Schouler have also selected Raf’s to host dinners and events. On weekdays, the restaurant has become a preferred Manhattan destination for magazine editors, such as Interview’s Mel Ottenberg, designers, and fashion insiders based in nearby SoHo.
Isabella Isbiroglu, communications director at Khaite, noted, “There was a period when I found myself having lunch or breakfast meetings here two or three times each week,” highlighting the frequency of industry professionals choosing Raf’s for engagements.
Historical Roots and Contemporary Concept
The wood-fired ovens, a defining feature of the restaurant space predating Parisi Bakery, trace back to 1935, when Angelina Bivona, a young Sicilian immigrant, established Angie’s Italian & French Bakery Cafe. Despite its name, Angie’s was not authentically French.
A French-Italian Identity Conceived in History
Raf’s proprietors, twin sisters Nicole and Jennifer Vitagliano, explained that the “French-Italian” designation was a strategic choice to navigate anti-Italian immigrant sentiments prevalent at the time. “She termed it French-Italian to enhance its perceived sophistication,” explained Nicole Vitagliano. The sisters, New York natives with Italian-American heritage, discovered a vintage property tax photograph showcasing the bakery’s original storefront during historical research on the building.
“That photograph ultimately shaped our entire vision,” Nicole Vitagliano stated. “The French-Italian moniker, despite the absence of French influence, resonated with us.” Today, Raf’s maintains the same wording on its storefront signage, while the interior design reflects a European café aesthetic. The ambiance blends Parisian and Italian elements, with staff smartly dressed in pajama-style tops. Features include a pink marble bar, saffron velvet seating, and a frescoed ceiling depicting a cloud-filled sky above the warmly lit space.
Maintaining an Intimate Atmosphere
Flash photography is discouraged within the dining area. “It disrupts the experience,” Jennifer Vitagliano commented. “We prioritize our guests’ enjoyment, and a flash can be jarring and intrusive.”
This deliberate avoidance of social media documentation aligns with the owners’ philosophy. “We appreciate hosting individuals of influence, rather than just influencers,” Jennifer Vitagliano clarified, citing Patti Smith and Lauren Hutton as examples of the kind of esteemed New Yorkers reminiscent of the Noho Star clientele.
Sister-Owned Success and Female Empowerment
The Vitagliano sisters, both 40, named Raf’s in tribute to their grandmother and Nicole Vitagliano’s daughter. They also own and manage the Michelin-starred Musket Room and Cafe Zaffri in the Twenty-Two hotel.
While Jennifer Vitagliano’s career has been primarily in the culinary industry, her sister Nicole previously worked in fashion, including at BlackBook magazine and as a stylist. “Many of our close friends remain in fashion,” she noted. They represent a loyal clientele with discerning aesthetic sensibilities.
Jennifer Vitagliano also attributes the restaurant’s prosperity to strong female solidarity. “As women leading this restaurant, still somewhat uncommon in our industry, we have received significant support, particularly from female designers.”
Championing Female Leadership
Maria McManus, a designer who emphasizes supporting socially responsible, women-founded businesses as “more crucial than ever,” is among these advocates. “I view the dinner table as the female equivalent of the historically male-dominated golf course, and the Raf’s women embody this concept,” she asserted.
Sustaining a female-led enterprise is central to the sisters’ mission. “We believe it should be more prevalent,” Nicole Vitagliano stated. Mary Attea and Camari Mick, the chefs at Raf’s, also oversee culinary operations at their other establishments, and women currently hold 75 percent of their managerial roles.
Balancing Exclusivity and Exposure
The question remains: How long can a venue favored by the fashion world maintain its discreet charm? Ms. Isbiroglu from Khaite has already observed a shift. “It’s amusing because now when I arrive for breakfast meetings, I often spot familiar faces, and it’s like, ‘Oh, usually we see each other at Sant Ambroeus, but now we’re all finding ourselves meeting here.’”
At the i-D event, Mr. Bettridge dismissed concerns about Raf’s becoming overly trendy. “It’s not a runway atmosphere, where everyone scrutinizes your arrival,” he noted.
To a degree, fostering a sense of community among regulars is part of Raf’s appeal. “When you dine here, you anticipate encountering people you know,” Jennifer Vitagliano acknowledged. She and her sister still manage nightly reservations to ensure a harmonious mix of regular patrons and new guests.
However, she refuted the notion of Raf’s becoming SoHo’s latest “hot spot.” “We are striving to cultivate something enduring,” she concluded. “Being labeled as merely trendy would be the antithesis of our goal.”