Mine’s a pint of Unesco… brewers chase heritage status for British cask ale

Importance Score: 65 / 100 🔴


Cask Beer: A British Tradition Seeks UNESCO Recognition Amidst Declining Popularity

Cask beer, a quintessential British beverage with a rich history, remains available in numerous pubs across the UK. However, this iconic drink has experienced a prolonged decline in popularity. Despite its heritage, cask ale faces challenges, including perceptions of being an “older generation’s drink” and debates surrounding ideal serving temperatures. Consequently, the number of establishments serving traditional cask beer and overall sales volume have significantly decreased in recent years, prompting calls for action to revitalize this British beer tradition.

Petition Launched to Safeguard Cask Ale Heritage

A recent petition seeks to protect the “historic and traditional serving method” of cask ale, described as “unique to the UK.” The initiative urges the government to seek UNESCO intangible cultural heritage status for the production and serving of cask ale. This recognition would place it alongside other esteemed cultural traditions like Belgian beer culture, Arabic coffee, and French baguettes.

UK’s Intangible Cultural Heritage Recognition

Currently, no British product holds this UNESCO designation. The UK only recently ratified the 2003 UNESCO convention for safeguarding intangible cultural heritage in March 2024, paving the way for potential nominations like cask ale.

The Call to “Keep Cask Alive”

Jonny Garrett, the driving force behind the petition and the online documentary series “Keep Cask Alive,” emphasizes cask ale’s vital role in British history. Historically, all beer was served from casks. However, this practice diminished in the early 20th century with the rise of keg lagers, which are easier to manage and highly carbonated.

Garrett notes, “We’re the only nation that meaningfully holds on to this tradition,” highlighting the unique position of the UK in preserving cask ale. He praises cask ale for its distinctive “softer, moussier” texture.

“We’ve ended up with this incredible brewing tradition of about 4% malt-focused, bittersweet beers that is, within the brewing world, the envy globally. Yet we often overlook it and instead idolize American, Belgian, and German brewing. We possess our own world-renowned heritage.”

Garrett further describes drinking cask ale as “experiencing how our forebears savored beer,” connecting it to a tangible link to the past.

Industry Support for UNESCO Bid

The campaign has garnered support from the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) and numerous breweries. Notable breweries backing the initiative include Timothy Taylor’s, Five Points, and Shepherd Neame, collectively owning hundreds of pubs across the United Kingdom. These industry players recognize the importance of preserving and promoting cask ale.

Cask Ale’s Market Presence and Future Prospects

Despite challenges, cask ale still accounts for approximately 10% of draught beer sales, with higher concentrations in regions like Manchester, Leeds, and Sheffield. Garrett estimates that craft keg beer, while representing a smaller market share of 3% to 4%, often receives disproportionate attention.

The campaign also aims to support breweries, which have faced closures, and related industries like barley and hop farming. The British Hop Association reports a decline to only about 50 hop farms remaining in the UK.

Benefits of UNESCO Recognition

Garrett believes that achieving cultural heritage status would provide wide-ranging benefits. It would obligate the government to protect cask ale culture and offer “an additional tool for negotiation” against increases in alcohol duty or business rates. Furthermore, UNESCO recognition could unlock funding for research and education initiatives aimed at attracting younger consumers.

Referencing the recognition of Belgian beer culture in 2016, Garrett notes it spurred an “incredible surge in interest, both within Belgium and also regarding tourism. That would be genuinely advantageous, especially now, with pubs and breweries facing considerable hardship.”

Industry Voices Advocate for Cask Ale

Pete Wells, chief executive of Wells & Co in Bedfordshire, emphasizes cask ale’s “important part” in the brewery’s 149-year history. He states, “The fantastic campaign is something we are pleased to endorse, and hope that this will celebrate what we have always understood – that cask ale is a legacy worthy of protection, while invigorating interest in a continually evolving market.”

CAMRA’s chair, Ash Corbett-Collins, warns that cask beers are endangered by global brewing conglomerates acquiring historic breweries, leading to the neglect and eventual discontinuation of their traditional beers.

Reasons for Optimism

Garrett points to promising signs, including growing interest in cask ale among younger craft beer enthusiasts. He suggests several factors that could contribute to a cask ale resurgence:

  • Lower alcohol content appealing to health-conscious drinkers.
  • Increased affordability compared to some craft beers.
  • More natural production methods attracting consumers seeking authenticity.

Richard Bradbury, managing director of Theakston Brewery in North Yorkshire, asserts, “A superb pint of cask ale is central to what defines a great British pub.” He concludes, “It would be fantastic to have that acknowledged and celebrated by UNESCO. In this period of protectionism, it might, in time, encourage a reduced rate of excise duty on cask beer.”

Corbett-Collins adds, “The exceptionally skilled brewers producing cask beer deserve to have their artisan craft respected and safeguarded.”


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