Balenciaga and orthopaedic brand Scholl team up for ‘Frankenshoe’ hybrid

Importance Score: 45 / 100 🔵


Balenciaga and Scholl Collaborate on “Ugly Shoe” Collection

As brands like Birkenstock and Crocs have become commonplace, the fashion world’s “ugly shoe” phenomenon risked losing its provocative edge. The unveiling of the Balenciaga and orthopaedic footwear brand Scholl collaboration is therefore timely, injecting fresh impetus into this contentious trend. This new line, featuring reimagined Scholl sandals and clogs, is poised to capture attention within the evolving landscape of comfort footwear and designer collaborations.

“Frankenshoe” and Clog Mule Highlight Collection

Launched this week, the collection features a distinctive “Frankenshoe.” This style merges the buckle and front strap of the iconic Pescura Scholl sandal with a cork sole and a slender high heel, offered at a price of £625.

Another key piece is a £525 white clog mule. This design echoes Scholl’s classic aesthetic, often associated with professions like nursing and cleaning, presenting a high-fashion interpretation of practical footwear. Completing the initial offerings is a logo-emblazoned pool slider, priced at £315.

Scholl’s Resurgence in the Fashion Spotlight

The white clog mule.

This Balenciaga collaboration confirms Scholl’s ascendance as the latest practical shoe brand to achieve prominence in the fashion sphere. Celebrities such as Lily-Rose Depp and Sarah Jessica Parker have been seen wearing Scholl shoes. Reportedly, Scholl has experienced increased sales this year, particularly among the 29 to 45-year-old demographic who are purchasing the more expensive styles. The Cameron, a heeled variant of the Pescura, has become the most sought-after design, retailing at £200.

Fashion Expert on “Weird Contrast” Appeal

Emma Davidson, fashion director at Dazed magazine, owns a pair of the Balenciaga heeled Scholl shoes. She describes their appeal as stemming from “the weird contrast… an old maid type of shoe with the addition of that spindly heel.” Davidson expresses a general appreciation for ugly shoes. “Even though I am a bit scruffy, I always like to feel a bit glam,” she states. “The shoes contrast with what I wear, and I think it adds an edge.”

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Scholl’s History and Evolution

The Scholl Manufacturing Company was established in 1906 by American podiatrist Dr. William Scholl. While the contemporary US-based entity, Dr. Scholl’s, primarily focuses on comfort trainers, Scholl, the Italian-based company behind the Pescura and the Balenciaga partnership, concentrates on footcare products in the UK market.

Pescura Sandal: From Exercise Aid to Fashion Icon

The Pescura sandal debuted in 1956 and gained early endorsements from fashion figures like Audrey Hepburn, Twiggy, and Jean Shrimpton. Its popularity surged in the 1970s, marketed as the “exercise sandal” due to purported benefits like improved posture and muscle tone. Rebecca Shawcross, a senior curator at Northampton’s Shoe Museum, recalls their appeal as footwear that was perceived as “doing you some good,” embodying an “outdoorsy, carefree” image, suggesting Scholl was “quite ahead of their time.”

Clogs and Further Collaborations

While the clog mule is strongly associated with Scholl, other brands have adopted the style. Ancient Greek Sandals offer a summer version, and clogs were featured prominently in Miu Miu’s runway collection. This fashion collaboration with Balenciaga is not Scholl’s first foray into high fashion; previous partnerships include projects with Ganni and DJ and designer Honey Dijon in 2022.

Comfort Trend Drives Scholl’s Popularity

Yves Guy Coulter, Scholl’s chief brand officer, notes that the brand is leveraging current footwear fashion trends. “Scholl’s resurgence is definitely part of a wider trend toward comfort-driven footwear. More and more people – especially younger consumers – are rejecting the idea that fashion has to come at the expense of comfort.”

Podiatrist’s Perspective on Health Aspects

However, Dr. Helen Branthwaite, chief clinical adviser for the Royal College of Podiatry, clarifies that describing the Pescura as an unequivocally healthy choice is not straightforward. “The wooden sole can be beneficial, but that is offset by an open slip-on design,” she explains. “This style offers minimal foot support and increases the foot’s workload.”

Practicality vs. High Heels

Nevertheless, they are arguably a better option than prolonged wear of pointed-toe high heels, a shoe trend that Shawcross notes has dominated for “the last 400 or 500 years.”

Acceptance of “Unconventional” Styles

The curator concludes by suggesting Scholl could be another example of footwear requiring an adjustment period for broader acceptance. “So many people now wear Crocs,” she observes. “But initially, there was some resistance: ‘Oh no. Why would you wear those?’” indicating evolving perceptions of shoe trends and comfort in fashion.


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