Luxury Fashion Brands Are ‘Biting Their Nails’ Over EU Tariffs

Importance Score: 42 / 100 🔵

Luxury Sector Braces for Impact as New Tariffs Loom

Just a month prior, purveyors of luxury goods anticipated a favorable shift with deregulation, reduced taxes, and a thriving stock market on the horizon. They envisioned affluent consumers freely spending on lavish apparel and premium accessories. However, the current imposition of 20 percent tariffs by the government on products originating from the European Union has compelled these businesses to confront a starkly different reality. This shift threatens a transformation of the U.S. market, potentially resulting in fewer iconic quilted handbags, pricier high-end timepieces, and pricing instability for items bearing “**Made in Italy**,” “**Made in France**,” and “**Made in Switzerland**” labels for American consumers. These consumers were responsible for a substantial 24 percent of the global luxury spending, totaling $1.62 trillion, in the previous year.

Industry Experts Weigh In

“The U.S. was expected to be the primary growth engine for the luxury goods sector,” stated Euan Rellie, co-founder of investment bank BDA. “The current administration has abruptly signaled a change in stance, creating a challenging situation for luxury brands.” The industry was already facing headwinds from slowed sales in China, economic deceleration in Germany, and demographic shifts in Japan. The emerging uncertainty in the major U.S. market amplifies existing concerns.

Brands Remain Silent on Tariff Implications

Despite the potential ramifications, prominent luxury groups are remaining tight-lipped. A representative for LVMH, the world’s largest luxury conglomerate encompassing over 75 brands such as Dior and Louis Vuitton, declined to comment. The U.S. constitutes a significant 25 percent of LVMH’s revenue, and Louis Vuitton operates manufacturing facilities within the United States. Similarly, Burberry and Chanel offered no official statements. Silence also prevailed from Hermès, Kering (parent company to Gucci and Balenciaga), and Puig (owner of Carolina Herrera and Rabanne), as well as American brands Coach and Tory Burch.

American Designers Express Concern

Doug Hand, a fashion lawyer primarily advising independent American brands sourcing materials internationally, depicted his clients as being in a state of considerable anxiety. Andrew Rosen, an investor and advisor to brands like Veronica Beard, echoed this sentiment, expressing uncertainty about future merchandise costs.

Price Hikes Anticipated Amidst Policy Volatility

While luxury brands often possess robust profit margins enabling them to absorb some financial strain or pressure suppliers, analysts predict eventual price increases if tariffs persist. Luca Solca, a senior analyst at Bernstein, suggested that many are adopting a wait-and-see approach, citing the fluid nature of U.S. policy and the possibility of revised trade agreements.

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Manufacturing Shift Unlikely

Despite stated policy goals, incentivizing domestic luxury goods production remains improbable. William Susman, a managing director at Cascadia Capital, noted that reshoring manufacturing is not currently under consideration by industry players. Brunello Cucinelli, founder of his namesake brand, affirmed no plans to relocate production from Italy, emphasizing the core identity of “Made in Italy.”

Historical Context of US Apparel Manufacturing

Historically, the vast majority of clothing sold in the U.S. was domestically produced. Currently, that figure is drastically reduced to approximately 2 percent. Rebuilding a substantial American apparel industry would be a protracted process, according to Denise N. Green, director of the Cornell University Fashion and Textile Collection, highlighting the intricate global supply chains currently in place.

Consumer Costs to Rise

Analysts emphasize that tariffs will ultimately translate to increased costs for American consumers. Mr. Solca of Bernstein stated that the proposed tariffs on goods from the European Union and Switzerland will inevitably lead to higher price points for consumers. Mr. Rosen reiterated that these measures effectively represent a tax on American companies and consumers.

Luxury Market Resilience in Question

While luxury goods are traditionally considered resilient during economic downturns, the profile of the luxury consumer is evolving. Achim Berg, founder of Fashion Sights, pointed out that a significant portion of luxury buyers are “aspirational customers” who may reconsider discretionary purchases in the face of economic uncertainty and market fluctuations. An atmosphere of economic insecurity may dampen consumer enthusiasm for non-essential luxury items.

Compounding Price Increases and Eroding Trust

Tariffs compound existing trends of luxury price inflation. For example, prices for certain iconic handbags have more than doubled in recent years. Claudia D’Arpizio of Bain & Company suggests this could further erode consumer trust, particularly amidst existing negative perceptions surrounding ultra-high-end goods.

Opportunities in the Pre-Owned Market

Despite industry-wide challenges, some sectors may benefit. John Demsey, formerly of Estée Lauder, anticipates continued success for certain businesses. Mr. Susman suggests the pre-owned luxury market, particularly vintage designer goods, could see increased demand. A dealer in vintage timepieces noted increased activity in anticipation of tariffs, underscoring the dynamic market response.

Emergence of Gray Market and Shift to Discreet Consumption

Analysts anticipate the potential growth of a gray market for luxury goods. Furthermore, industry experts foresee a resurgence of “silent luxury,” reminiscent of past economic recessions, where overt displays of wealth become less favored. Consumers may gravitate towards understated luxury, opting for less conspicuous consumption in an environment of economic unease and potential “luxury shame,” according to Ms. D’Arpizio.


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