Is the Restaurant Good? Or Is It Just the Ambience?

Importance Score: 45 / 100 🔵

Beyond the Plate: How Restaurant Branding and Ambiance are Stealing the Show

In today’s competitive culinary landscape, a striking aesthetic and memorable branding are becoming as crucial as the cuisine itself. Nowhere is this more apparent than at Papa San, a Peruvian-Japanese eatery in Midtown Manhattan, where a vibrant explosion of pink and orange hues dominates the restaurant design, perhaps even overshadowing the food. From a neon-orange sign and pink coasters to the color-saturated bathrooms, every detail reinforces the restaurant’s visual identity, prompting the question: In the age of enhanced dining experiences, is restaurant atmosphere now the main course?

The Rise of Visual Dining

Chef and co-owner Erik Ramirez, also the owner of other Peruvian restaurants in New York City, acknowledges this shift. “Everything is branding nowadays,” Mr. Ramirez stated. He suggests that for contemporary diners, “the food element is kind of an afterthought,” in comparison to the overall restaurant branding and visual appeal.

Atmosphere Over Ambition: A Decade of Change

A decade ago, the dining scene was powered by culinary innovation and renowned chefs. Today, the focus has pivoted towards atmosphere and visual presentation. For a generation raised on visually-driven platforms like Instagram, a distinct aesthetic is paramount. Restaurants are no longer just about taste; they need an Instagrammable identity.

Anna Polonsky, founder of the Brooklyn-based design studio Polonsky and Friends, describes the desired ambiance: “Fun, stylish, and full of energy, with great drinks, good enough food and an atmosphere they can’t replicate at home.”

Experiences Valued Over Culinary Prowess

Sarah Hoski, who manages a popular Asheville dining Instagram account, confirms this trend. Her followers are increasingly interested in the complete dining experience, not solely the dishes. “Very rarely do I now get the question of: What recommendations do you have because of the food?” she observed. “It is more: What recommendations do you have because of the space or the vibe?”

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Democratization of Restaurant Branding

Previously, comprehensive branding was exclusive to large restaurant groups with substantial budgets. Now, thanks to accessible online tools like Canva, any establishment can develop a logo and custom merchandise. Jeff Chanchaleune, chef and owner of Bar Sen, a Lao noodle shop in Oklahoma City, spent a mere $12,000 on branding for his restaurant – approximately 5% of his total expenditure. Remarkably, he began selling branded merchandise before finalizing his menu.

Mr. Chanchaleune believes that “the way the space makes them feel might just make the food taste better,” highlighting the powerful impact of ambiance on perceived taste.

The Rising Cost of Theatrical Dining

Hillary Dixler Canavan, former restaurant editor of Eater, points out that with rising dining costs, customer expectations are evolving. Patrons now seek more than just sustenance; they crave a theatrical dining experience. “Once you are spending a lot of money,” she explained, “you expect the experience to rise with the bill.”

To meet these elevated expectations, many restaurants are prioritizing striking interiors and strong branding, often opting for familiar, crowd-pleasing food options. Ms. Dixler Canavan notes, “They are serving basically what everyone else is serving: It is a steakhouse, it is a red sauce joint, it is a pizzeria.” She adds, “But look at the cool branding. The identity is wrapped up in what it looks like rather than what it is actually doing.”

Examples of Brand-Forward Restaurants

Consider Sharpies pizzeria in Chicago. While one of many pizzerias in the city, it distinguishes itself with a unique dining environment featuring a flying saucer, celestial ceiling decorations, and an alien dog mascot.

Success Through Distinctive Design

Scott Koehl, an owner of Sharpies, explained that serving a common dish like pizza allowed him creative freedom in design. This strategy proved successful; Sharpies has maintained robust business since its March opening and garnered significant social media attention, contrasting sharply with his other Chicago restaurant, Ada Street, which lacks a distinctive logo or striking restaurant design. “I don’t think that restaurant could survive if it opened this year,” Mr. Koehl reflected.

Mr. Koehl is already planning to introduce custom apparel, including T-shirts and hats. Designer Ms. Polonsky notes a shift in merchandise demand. Pre-pandemic, restaurants primarily requested custom menus and coasters. Now, merchandise requests are so frequent she has to limit them. “Right after Covid everyone was asking us for baseball caps and sweatshirts, and I thought that was super wasteful,” she commented. “How many baseball caps do people need?”

Ms. Polonsky emphasizes that restaurant owners seek a dining space that is not only attractive but also personalized, incorporating elements like custom wallpaper and unique artwork. She notes a departure from past design trends like midcentury modernism or neutral minimalism. “Now, in both branding and interiors, there is more and more a desire to create your own story,” she concluded.

The Evolving Restaurant Philosophy

Sam Yoo, owner of New York restaurants Golden Hof, NY Kimchi, and Golden Diner, initially believed exceptional food was the primary driver of customer attraction.

“But once I flipped over as a business owner, I was like, ‘Oh, you know what? Food is only 40 to 50 percent,’” he admitted. “The rest of it is vibe and service.”

For Golden Hof and NY Kimchi, both launched in Midtown in February, Mr. Yoo invested $200,000 in atmospheric enhancements, engaging a lighting designer, music curator, and an illustrator for menu artwork. “We are competing against the Major Food Groups and the Bad Romans,” he explained, highlighting the need to match competitors in overall experience, not just food.

The New Holy Trinity: Food, Service, and Design

Mr. Yoo now advocates a redefined formula for restaurant success: “Food, service and design are the holy trinity,” he proclaimed. “You need to have two out of three. You don’t need to have all three.” This evolving perspective underscores the growing importance of design and ambiance in the modern restaurant industry.


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