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Beauty pageants in Ivory Coast are undergoing a significant shift as organizers ban wigs, weaves, and hair extensions at the preliminary stages of the national competition. This move towards natural hair aims to celebrate authentic African beauty and challenge long-standing norms within the popular Ivorian beauty contest scene.
Embracing Natural Beauty: Ivory Coast Beauty Pageant Bans Wigs
For years, long, flowing wigs and weave extensions have been a dominant feature on the catwalks of Ivory Coast’s beauty pageants, a cultural phenomenon in the West African nation. Contestants frequently invest considerable sums in their overall presentation, from attire to elaborate hairstyles, with natural looks being a rarity.
Over six decades, only two instances stand out as exceptions. The most recent was Marlène-Kany Kouassi, who claimed the Miss Ivory Coast title in 2022. She captivated audiences with her short, natural hair, allowing the crown to be her sole embellishment.
Her victory was not just unconventional in Ivory Coast but globally, where Western beauty ideals often dictate the preferred aesthetic for both participants and judges in such competitions.
While change has been gradual, last December witnessed Angélique Angarni-Filopon from Martinique, French Caribbean island, making headlines as Miss France. Her age, 34, and her short Afro hairstyle distinguished her win.
However, this year, the Ivorian competition’s organizers are initiating a dramatic transformation right from the outset.
Wigs and Extensions Prohibited in Preliminary Rounds
A ban on wigs, weaves, and hair extensions has been implemented for the preliminary phases of the contest. These initial rounds are conducted across 13 cities within the country, and also in two international locations for the diaspora.
Victor Yapobi, president of the Miss Ivory Coast organizing committee, stated to the BBC, “We desire contestants to present themselves naturally. Whether they choose braids or straightened hair, it must be their own. Beauty should be authentic.”
Promoting Authentic African Aesthetics
Ivory Coast stands alone as the sole African nation currently enforcing such a ban in a national beauty competition.
Mr. Yapobi explained that organizers in Ivory Coast have long advocated for a more genuine appearance. Cosmetic surgery is disallowed, and skin lightening is discouraged.
“This year, our aim is to genuinely highlight the innate beauty of these young women,” he added.
Additional modifications include permitting contestants of slightly shorter stature, lowering the minimum height to 1.67m (5.4ft), raising the age limit by three years to 28, and significantly decreasing the entry fee by over $30 (£25) to $50.
“These revised criteria stem from our observation that young women were incurring substantial expenses to participate, creating a significant financial burden.”
Contestants’ Reactions to the Natural Hair Rule
During the first preliminary pageant in Daloa, the primary city in the western Haut-Sassandra region, a contestant expressed immense joy at the new regulations. She felt it enhanced her prospects of success, as she personally prefers natural hairstyles over wigs.
Emmanuella Dali, a 21-year-old real estate agent, shared with the BBC, “Seeing other participants with long, artificial hair often made them appear very beautiful.”
She continued, “This regulation instills greater pride in me as a woman, and as an African woman.”
Debate and Diverse Opinions on Hair Choices
This initiative to celebrate natural African beauty has ignited considerable discussion nationwide, given the widespread popularity of wigs and extensions.
Many women value wigs and weaves as a fashion choice for their versatility in creative expression. They also serve as a “protective style,” minimizing daily manipulation and stress on natural hair, which can lead to breakage.
Some contestants in Daloa echoed this sentiment, feeling the rule curtailed personal expression.
Astrid Menekou, a 24-year-old contestant and make-up artist, confessed, “I’m a wigs enthusiast. I adore wigs.” She admitted to the BBC her initial shock at the no-wig, no-extension requirement.
However, she added, “I didn’t anticipate this rule, but now? I appreciate my natural hair, and that’s perfectly fine.”
The revised rule has prompted competitors to reconsider their perceptions of beauty, leading to shifts in perspectives, such as that of Laetitia Mouroufie.
The 25-year-old student recounted, “Last year, I used extensions because I believed that was synonymous with beauty.”
“This year,” she declared, “I feel more self-assured being authentic.”
Economic Impact on the Hair Industry
The competition’s influence on broader attitudes could have significant economic consequences beyond the pageant sphere.
Human hair wigs, which can last for years with proper upkeep, range from approximately $200 to $4,000, while synthetic alternatives cost between $10 and $300.
Ivory Coast’s hair industry generates over $300 million annually, with wigs and weaves constituting a substantial portion of this market.
Ange Sea, a 30-year-old hairdresser in Daloa, expressed concern to the BBC: “This rule is unfavorable for us.”
“Numerous women favor wigs. This will negatively affect our business, as wig and weave services are more lucrative.”
Her salon specializes in meticulously applying wigs with adhesive for a natural appearance, and women dedicate hours to weave and extension installations.
This underscores the deep-rooted wig culture in West Africa, despite the growing global natural hair movement among black women in recent years.
The Rise of the Natural Hair Movement
Natural hair products are now more accessible, and natural hair influencers are prevalent on social media platforms, offering guidance on managing and styling natural hair, a process that can be time-intensive.
Historically, wearing natural hair was often deemed unprofessional. It was uncommon to see black female television personalities or corporate executives sporting natural hairstyles.
Florence Edwige Nanga, a hair and scalp specialist in Abidjan, Ivory Coast’s main city, indicates this perception persists in Ivory Coast.
“On local television, nearly every female journalist wears a wig,” the trichologist told the BBC.
“While these beauty enhancements are fashionable, they can also lead to issues such as alopecia or scalp infections,” she cautioned.
Looking Ahead: Acceptance and Shifting Styles
As preliminary rounds progress, ongoing debates persist regarding whether pageants should dictate beauty standards, or if such choices should remain with individual women.
The potential outcome may be greater acceptance of both aesthetics in Ivory Coast, allowing women to alternate between natural hair and wigs and weaves.
Mr. Yapobi described the feedback on the new rules as “extraordinary,” demonstrating a clear impact.
“The response has been universally congratulatory, even internationally. We are receiving emails and messages from around the world commending our commitment to returning to our roots.”
He indicated that no decision has been finalized regarding the wig ban’s application to the 15 finalists of Miss Ivory Coast 2025.
The final event is scheduled for a hotel in Abidjan in late June and will be nationally televised.
“If this proves successful, we will continue and expand this initiative in the years ahead,” Mr. Yapobi affirmed.
Natural Hair Victory: A Symbol of African Beauty
For Doria Koré, crowned Miss Haut-Sassandra, her title carries profound meaning: “Winning with natural hair exemplifies the authentic beauty of African women.”
Ms. Dali emphasized that she gained something even more valuable than a crown: self-assurance. “I may not have won, but I am proud. This is my true self.”