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Khartoum Devastated: Sudan’s Capital Grapples with Aftermath of Conflict
The once vibrant heart of Khartoum now lies in an eerie stillness, a stark contrast to the weeks of intense urban fighting that recently engulfed the Sudanese capital. Just days after the Sudanese army declared the recapture of the city from the paramilitary Rapid Support Forces (RSF), we ventured into Khartoum. This victory for the army marks a turning point in their six-month offensive through central Sudan, but the city bears deep scars of the brutal battles.
Khartoum: From Bustling Capital to War-Scarred City
Formerly the commercial hub and government center of Sudan, Khartoum is now a desolate shell, ravaged by conflict. This recapture marks a pivotal moment in the two-year civil war, a conflict stemming from a power struggle between the army and the RSF, a war tragically estimated to have claimed over 150,000 lives. Despite Eid celebrations erupting in the streets, and a sense of war’s end among some residents, the future direction of the conflict in Sudan remains uncertain.
Presidential Palace: A Symbol of Power in Ruins
Our first destination was the presidential palace, an early stronghold seized by the RSF. This strategically important base for the paramilitary group is now in ruins. Inside, debris and shattered glass litter the floors. Dust covers once stately cushioned chairs, a few paintings remain on the walls, and tattered chandeliers hang precariously from the ceilings. However, extensive looting has stripped the palace bare, with even electrical cables ripped from the walls.
Drone Strikes and Symbolic Victory
The most significant destruction is concentrated at the building’s facade, targeted by RSF drone attacks shortly after the army reclaimed the palace. The main entrance is decimated, with traces of dried blood visible on the steps and gaping window holes overlooking the Nile. One soldier expressed his excitement at entering the Republican palace, calling it a symbol of dignity and liberation for the Sudanese people, and an important symbol of power for the army itself.
Eid Celebrations Amidst Devastation
Soldiers celebrated their victory with singing and dancing as the Eid holiday commenced. A local restaurant provided a celebratory meal, as they are regarded as heroes by many in the capital. However, this triumph came at a tremendous price. Central Khartoum bears witness to immense destruction: government buildings, financial institutions, and towering commercial structures are charred and gutted. Khartoum’s international airport is a scene of devastation, with destroyed aircraft scattered across the tarmac and passport control areas covered in ash.
Grim Realities on Khartoum Streets
Driving cautiously, we navigated around unexploded munitions in the streets. At one intersection, human remains were piled up, including visible skulls. Nearby, a body lay in front of a wrecked vehicle. A visit to St Matthew’s Cathedral, constructed in 1908 and a place of worship for Sudan’s Christian minority, offered a brief respite from the grim scenes. The cathedral’s beautifully painted ceiling remained undamaged. A shell had penetrated a high wall, causing a cross to fall, but overall, the cathedral fared better than much of the surrounding destruction.
Desecration and Displacement
A soldier cleaning debris inside the church explained that most of the damage was from shrapnel. He stated that the “house of God” was not deliberately destroyed, but RSF fighters had desecrated the building. He also shared his personal story of being unable to see his newborn son due to the ongoing conflict. Paramilitary forces also occupied areas housing diplomatic missions, leading to the evacuation of international staff when fighting erupted. At the British embassy entrance, RSF graffiti is visible. The bulletproof glass, though heavily marked by impacts, largely held firm.
A Nation Divided
A fleet of destroyed vehicles sits in the embassy’s back parking area. Across the street, a tattered UK flag hung over the stairwell of a battered building. This marks Sudan’s third civil war in 70 years, and arguably the most devastating as previous conflicts were geographically confined. This conflict has penetrated the heart of Sudan, exacerbating divisions and threatening national fragmentation. Further from the city center, muted Eid celebrations occurred. For those in these areas, the war feels distant, despite its continuation elsewhere in the country.
Hope and Resilience in War-Torn Khartoum
While accusations of atrocities against the army persist and reports indicate extensive displacement, some in Khartoum celebrated the end of the RSF occupation. At a community kitchen, residents expressed buoyant moods. Osman al-Bashir described feeling “re-created,” highlighting the war’s hardships but emphasizing newfound hope. Duaa Tariq, a pro-democracy activist, noted that this Eid is the first in two years of celebration. Despite wartime struggles to maintain food supplies and ongoing scarcity, hope is palpable.
Fragile Freedom and Uncertain Future
Kasim Agra, an elderly resident, declared, “Freedom is what’s important,” pointing to the simple act of carrying a mobile phone, a freedom recently regained. Mobile phones, lifelines to the world, had been prime targets for RSF theft. Mr. Agra voiced optimism about Khartoum’s and Sudan’s recovery, envisioning international investment for reconstruction. However, the immense task of rebuilding and preserving Khartoum’s unique identity remains. Many women expressed relief at finally being able to sleep without fear of looters, but the psychological toll of fear and loss is immense.
Trauma and Questions for the Future of Sudan
Najwa Ibrahim emphasized the deep trauma inflicted on children, requiring significant psychological support. Ms. Tariq questioned the future accessibility and openness of the city, and, crucially, the fate of freedoms and rights gained in the years following Omar al-Bashir’s ousting. The future for civil society and activists remains uncertain. Ultimately, the future of Sudan remains unclear. Hawaa Abdulshafiea, a 16-year-old, expressed concern for Darfur, the RSF stronghold, where the humanitarian crisis is most severe and where the conflict may escalate. “We pray for the people of Darfur,” she stated.