Steak Fries: Deservedly Reviled or Underappreciated Edible Spoon?

The Humble Steak Fry: An Unlikely Culinary Comeback?

Steak fries. The name itself conjures images of hearty indulgence, yet the reality often falls short. These potato planks, frequently pale and underwhelming, occupy a strange middle ground between classic fries and baked potatoes. Lacking the satisfying crispness of the former and the rich, comforting interior of the latter, steak fries have largely faded from favor in the American culinary landscape. Encountering them today can feel like a relic from a bygone era.

A Midtown Manhattan Mystery: Steak Fries on the Menu

This very question arose during a recent visit to Park Ave Kitchen by David Burke, a Midtown eatery situated on Lexington Avenue. In a dining scene increasingly dominated by refined offerings, steak fries seemed an anomaly on Park Ave Kitchen’s otherwise contemporary and thoughtfully curated menu, which boasts dishes like bison short ribs and black sea bass tikka masala.

“I noticed them about two weeks prior,” remarked owner David Burke in a phone conversation. “I was in the restaurant and questioned, ‘What’s the deal with the steak fries?’”

Chef’s Perspective: A Call for Steak Fry Revival

Initially, Mr. Burke directed his query to Park Ave Kitchen’s chef, William Lustberg. Instead of relaying the chef’s response, Mr. Burke facilitated a direct conversation with Mr. Lustberg himself.

Moments later, Chef Lustberg joined the call, explaining his rationale. “They’re simply not as prevalent anymore, and I believe they deserve a resurgence,” he stated, his tone far from defensive. “I would be thrilled to play a part in bringing back steak fries.”

Market Realities: Uphill Battle for Steak Fry Popularity

However, reversing the fortunes of the steak fry will be a considerable challenge. The U.S. market for French fries is projected to reach $10 billion in the coming year. Among the numerous variations available—at least 30—steak fries languish near the bottom in popularity, trailing far behind ubiquitous straight-cut, crinkle-cut, and waffle-cut fries. Industry data from Circana, a market research firm, indicates steak fries command a mere 2% share of the total fry market by weight among wholesale distributors.

Nostalgia and Decline: Steak Fries’ Diminished Presence

This is undeniably a product past its peak. Steak fries were once a staple at chains like Ground Round, a Howard Johnson’s spin-off and a popular destination for families, known for its moderately priced American cuisine and free peanuts—the shells casually discarded onto the floor.

Ground Round declared bankruptcy in 2004, and its intellectual property rights were acquired in 2023 by Joe and Nachi Shea. The couple is in the process of launching a new Ground Round location in Shrewsbury, Massachusetts, reviving the original logo and color scheme, along with nostalgic touches like ice cream served in miniature baseball helmets. However, some traditions haven’t returned; while peanuts are absent, so too are the steak fries.

Consumer Preference and Economic Factors

“Frankly, it wasn’t even something we considered,” Joe Shea explained in a phone interview. “We are deeply connected with our clientele and conducted polls, asking, ‘What menu items would you like to see?’ Not a single respondent mentioned steak fries.”

Neil Doherty, senior director of global culinary strategy at Sysco, a major food supplier, attributes the reduced standing of steak fries partly to economics. Their substantial size means they don’t cover plate space efficiently. Consequently, providing a visually generous serving becomes more costly. Steak fries also suffer from what he terms “poor hold time,” a subtle way of saying they quickly become soggy and must be discarded sooner.

Innovation and Evolving Tastes

The introduction of new fry styles in recent years has further relegated steak fries. Sysco alone has developed red battered jumbo crinkle cuts and imperial swirl fries, characterized by a “distinctive ‘lock washer’ shape,” according to the company’s product descriptions.

Furthermore, palates have shifted since the era when prime rib and baked potatoes were a standard culinary pairing.

“Steak fries were ideal for individuals in the 70s and 80s who appreciated that substantial potato sensation,” Mr. Doherty noted.

In contemporary restaurants, the presence of steak fries can sometimes feel like an oversight in menu planning.

Dedicated Fans: Pockets of Steak Fry Appreciation

Yet, dedicated steak fry enthusiasts still exist across the nation. In Cheyenne, Wyoming, stands 2 Doors Down, a restaurant where owner and operator Jerry Inniss, when opening in 2009, specifically requested steak fry samples from two French fry distributors—nothing else.

His primary motivation was to offer a distinctive item, he explained. Before launch, he dedicated two weeks to developing a secret blend of spices for his steak fries. He keeps the recipe confidential, revealing only that it has a reddish-brown color and is frequently requested as a side for dipping or take-home seasoning.

2 Doors Down: A Steak Fry Success Story

“Customers might want to enhance their burger,” he speculated. “They might take it home to season other dishes. I’m not entirely sure.”

An unlimited serving of these steak fries is priced at $5.25, and Mr. Inniss sells an impressive ton and a half weekly. They have become a signature menu item, recognized as Wyoming’s best fries by Business Insider in 2016 and consistently winning the Wyoming Tribune Eagle’s “Best of the Best” award for fries.

Red Robin’s Unwavering Commitment

However, for sheer devotion to steak fries, Red Robin, the national burger chain headquartered in Greenwood, Colorado, reigns supreme. With nearly 500 company-owned and franchised restaurants in the U.S. and Canada, Red Robin proudly champions the steak fry. A team of three culinary experts in the company’s product development lab dedicates considerable time to creating novel dipping sauces specifically for these fries.

Sauce Innovation: Red Robin’s Flavor Focus

Not all sauce experiments make it past the testing phase.

“We experimented with beer cheese, barbecue sauce and burnt ends on steak fries,” disclosed Andrew Birkbeck, a Red Robin culinary product developer. “They weren’t successful.”

Mr. Birkbeck was demonstrating Red Robin’s sauce offerings at the Secaucus, New Jersey, location one recent Saturday morning. He travelled from Colorado to prepare a fresh batch of steak fries and showcase the chain’s most popular accompaniments. After frying them for five minutes in soybean oil, he presented them with a selection of sauces.

The Perfect Pairing: Sauces Elevate Steak Fries

“Okay, starting here, this is our signature Whiskey River BBQ sauce,” he began, moving clockwise around a plate of sauces. “Next is our sweet and spicy ketchup, made in-house with cayenne, garlic, sugar, and vinegar. Then we have our campfire mayo, a blend of barbecue sauce and mayonnaise, followed by our house-made ranch dressing, and finally our poppy seed honey mustard.”

Dipping a salted, crispy potato into these sauces is a delightful sensory experience. The true strength of a steak fry emerges: it becomes a perfect delivery system for flavor, essentially an edible spoon. Serving steak fries merely with salt and pepper overlooks their primary purpose and optimal application.

Rethinking the Steak Fry: A Culinary Redemption

Perhaps steak fries never failed us; perhaps we failed to understand their potential.

Chef Lustberg echoed this sentiment one evening in mid-March at Park Ave Kitchen. Dressed in chef’s attire and a New York Rangers cap, he sat before a silver serving dish filled with what the restaurant playfully calls $18 Midtown hipster fries.

He incorporated steak fries onto the menu in January with a nod to nostalgia, but this rendition is firmly rooted in contemporary culinary excess. The fries are generously layered with Camembert, grated Parmesan, charred shishito peppers, parsley, chili oil, and bacon cured with maple syrup.

Loaded Steak Fries: A Modern Culinary Statement

“And those are preserved lemon slices,” he added with pride, “for essential acidity.”

This combination of ingredients demonstrates that while steak fries may be underwhelming as a standalone side, within a carefully constructed dish, they can truly shine.