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Navigating the Growing Market of Nonalcoholic Wine and Wine Alternatives
Crafting palatable nonalcoholic wine presents a unique challenge. The process begins with traditional viticulture and winemaking, both demanding endeavors involving meticulous grape cultivation and wine production. Following this initial phase, the alcohol must be extracted, a step that, while less physically arduous than the initial winemaking, requires technical intervention often viewed unfavorably by quality-focused winemakers. This alcohol removal typically involves vacuum distillation and spinning cone technology, processes that separate the wine into its constituent parts, isolate the alcohol, and then reconstitute the remaining components.
The Role of Alcohol in Wine’s Composition
However, the removal of alcohol has significant consequences beyond merely eliminating its intoxicating properties. Alcohol contributes substantially to wine’s inherent qualities, imparting richness, texture, and serving as a carrier for flavor and aromatic compounds. Its presence is crucial for maintaining the equilibrium and structural integrity of the wine. Consequently, when alcohol is removed, alternative elements must compensate for its absence to maintain a balanced and enjoyable beverage.
Rising Demand for Nonalcoholic Beverages
Despite these complexities, winemakers globally are increasingly dedicated to producing high-quality nonalcoholic options. This pursuit is driven by a significant surge in the nonalcoholic beverage market. While alcoholic beverage sales have remained largely static, the nonalcoholic sector has witnessed substantial expansion, reporting growth exceeding 30 percent in the past year alone, according to Nielsen data. This upswing is primarily attributed to heightened consumer interest in health and mindful consumption.
Challenges for Winemakers Compared to Brewers and Bartenders
Beverage producers across the spectrum, from breweries to distilleries, are eager to capitalize on this evolving consumer preference. Bartenders adeptly create sophisticated nonalcoholic cocktails by omitting spirits and focusing on harmonious flavor combinations. Brewers can manipulate beer fermentation to limit alcohol creation and enhance other flavor inputs like hops and malt. However, winemakers encounter particularly steep hurdles. Wine typically contains a higher alcohol content and greater acidity compared to beer, and alcohol plays a more integral structural role than in many other drinks.
Addressing the Structural Deficit in Dealcoholized Wine
“Once you eliminate the alcohol from wine, a crucial underpinning is lost,” notes Aaron Pott of Pott Wine in Napa Valley, who also produces nonalcoholic wines under the Missing Thorn label with partner Stephanie Honig. “Alcohol provides a sweetness and density element, often necessitating the addition of sugar as a replacement.” This presents a considerable, although not insurmountable, problem.
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Exploring Nonalcoholic Wine Options and Alternatives
Recent evaluations of numerous nonalcoholic wines and wine alternatives – beverages formulated to replicate wine characteristics rather than being dealcoholized wine – reveal the current landscape. While many tasted were deemed unsatisfactory, exhibiting excessive sweetness, imbalance, or a hollow mid-palate, a select few, approximately ten, were deemed palatable. These acceptable options, while not mistaken for premium wine, were considered enjoyable in social settings where alcohol consumption is undesirable.
The Ongoing Evolution of Nonalcoholic Winemaking
It’s important to recognize that the quest for truly wine-like nonalcoholic wines is ongoing. The ideal solution remains elusive, and the industry is still in early stages of refinement. Leading nonalcoholic wine producers realize that simply substituting ingredients for alcohol in traditional wines like German Riesling or California Pinot Noir is exceedingly difficult. Instead, a comprehensive rethinking of the entire production methodology is required.
French Bloom’s Innovative Approach to Sparkling Nonalcoholic Wine
Constance Jablonski and Maggie Frerejean-Taittinger initiated this innovative approach when they decided to venture into nonalcoholic sparkling wine production in 2019. They partnered with Rodolphe Frerejean-Taittinger, CEO of Champagne house Frerejean Frères (and Ms. Frerejean-Taittinger’s husband), embarking on extensive experimentation.
“We learned that even the finest wine cannot simply be dealcoholized to create a good alcohol-free version,” Mr. Frerejean-Taittinger stated. He drew a parallel between the creation of quality nonalcoholic wine and Cognac production. “Cognac requires a base wine, which is frequently undrinkable on its own.”
Consequently, they established their company, French Bloom, in Limoux, Languedoc, a region with a historical legacy in sparkling wine, offering a warmer climate and more sun exposure for grape ripening compared to Champagne, along with more favorable business economics.
Terroir and Ingredient Selection for French Bloom
“We needed a terroir delivering increased sun, robust character, and ample acidity,” Mr. Frerejean-Taittinger explained. Ms. Frerejean-Taittinger elaborated on their commitment to organic ingredients, minimal sugar and chemical additives, and the exclusion of sulfur dioxide, a prevalent stabilizer.
French Bloom currently offers four sparkling nonalcoholic wines. Le Blanc, composed of sparkling spring water, dealcoholized wine, lemon juice and natural grape essence, was perceived as excessively sweet, resembling grape juice more closely than wine. Le Rosé, similarly formulated but with dealcoholized Pinot Noir for color, was even sweeter. Both are priced at $39.
The Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs and Le Cuvée represent a progression in quality. The Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, crafted from dealcoholized Chardonnay with salt and other components, exhibited a desirable richness and floral, wine-like character, culminating in a clean, dry finish. It was rated as notably commendable.
Le Cuvée, a vintage 2022 Blanc de Blancs, aimed to emulate aged Champagne. It achieved a creamy texture with a subtle caramel hint suggestive of oxidation from extended aging, although this note appeared somewhat pronounced.
The Blanc de Blancs is priced at $59, and Le Cuvée at $119, reflecting premium Champagne pricing for these nonalcoholic counterparts.
Mr. Frerejean-Taittinger described their winemaking journey as an ongoing refinement process focused on reducing sweetness, particularly in the rosé variant, and enhancing overall finesse.
Missing Thorn’s Approach and Grape Variety Importance
The Missing Thorn wines, produced by Mr. Pott in California, also garnered positive reviews. The white, made with dealcoholized Albariño, water, grape juice concentrate, natural flavors, and gum arabic (described by Mr. Pott as a “flavor encapsulator” for enhanced richness and density), was deemed balanced and complete, with minimal perceived deficiencies. The red, based on dealcoholized Malbec, was similarly refreshing and well-proportioned.
Mr. Pott emphasized the selection of appropriate grape varietals as crucial for nonalcoholic wines.
“The grape must possess significant varietal identity,” he asserted. “Aromatic varieties are essential because much is lost during dealcoholization.”
Wine Alternatives: Bypassing Dealcoholization
Some wine alternatives circumvent the complexities of dealcoholization entirely. These beverages seek to achieve wine-like flavor and acidity balance without utilizing conventional wine as a base.
Proxies Blank Slate, for example, blends Sauvignon Blanc grapes and verjus (the acidic juice of unripe grapes) with fruit concentrates and flavor extracts. The result is a dry and vibrant beverage with apricot and grapefruit notes.
Kally Golden Sparkler, another wine alternative incorporating verjus and other ingredients, presented as dry and floral, featuring crisp citrus flavors and a pleasant tartness and texture.
The Simplicity of Wine Alternatives
Creating complete and satisfying beverages appears more straightforward with wine alternatives compared to nonalcoholic wines, likely due to avoiding the technological manipulation inherent in dealcoholization processes.
Market Accessibility and Retail Restrictions
Due to the rapid market expansion of nonalcoholic products, accessibility is increasing. In New York, these can be found in select grocery stores and specialized retailers like Boisson and Spirited Away. However, traditional wine shops are generally not outlets, as New York is among 17 states restricting nonalcoholic versions of wine, beer, and spirits from being sold in liquor stores.
Recommended Nonalcoholic Wine and Wine Alternatives
Here are 10 noteworthy nonalcoholic products, listed from least to most expensive, that were positively reviewed:
- Giesen Dealcoholized New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, $18: While somewhat lacking in overall complexity, it distinctively evokes New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc aromatically.
- Hollow Leg Alcohol Free Cabernet Sauvignon, $20: A smooth and reasonably complete option with a favorable aftertaste, produced in Spain.
- Missing Thorn White Alcohol-Removed Wine, $25: Well-balanced, moderately sweet, and relatively complete in flavor profile.
- Tomorrow Cellars California Rhône Blanc Alcohol-Removed Wine, $25: Made from dealcoholized Marsanne, exhibiting vinous aromas and moderate sweetness.
- Proxies Blank Slate Non-Alcoholic Wine Alternative, $25: Juicy and dry, offering approachable apricot and grape aromatics.
- Unified Ferments Jasmine Green, $25: Crafted with jasmine tea and kombucha culture, resembling a dry and intricate iced tea.
- Lautus Dealcoholized Rosé Sparkling Wine, $26: A refreshing and dry sparkling rosé from South Africa.
- Missing Thorn Red Alcohol-Removed Wine, $30: Balanced, refreshing, and possesses a complete flavor experience.
- Kally Golden Sparkler, $35: Tart, savory, and notably delicious wine alternative.
- French Bloom Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, $59: Floral and balanced, serving as a commendable nonalcoholic analogue to Blanc de Blancs.