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H&M Embraces Artificial Intelligence With Digital Model Replicas
Fashion brand H&M is venturing into artificial intelligence, utilizing digital model replicas for marketing campaigns. Recent images showcase model Mathilda Gvarliani alongside her AI-generated twin, sparking discussion about the evolving role of technology in the fashion industry and its implications for models and fashion professionals.
Exploring Digital Frontiers in Fashion Marketing
Two images released by fashion retailer H&M feature Mathilda Gvarliani in a white tank top and jeans. While visually similar and seemingly from the same photoshoot, one image presents the actual Ms. Gvarliani, while the other is a digitally manipulated likeness of her.
The images, highlighted this week by The Business of Fashion, a respected industry news source, depict Ms. Gvarliani in two distinct poses. One shows her grasping her jeans’ waistband, while the other showcases her “digital twin” with crossed arms, directly engaging the camera.
A quote from Ms. Gvarliani, “She’s like me, without the jet lag,” is displayed across both photos. According to the publication, H&M is collaborating with over two dozen models this year to produce digital doubles for use across social media and promotional activities.
Industry Concerns and the Rise of AI Models
The Swedish-based clothing company joins a growing number of businesses exploring AI-generated imagery, a trend that has generated unease among some fashion industry experts. As artificial intelligence becomes increasingly prevalent in image creation, concerns are being raised about the potential consequences for models and other freelance professionals, such as stylists and makeup artists, who contribute to the creation of fashion photography.
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H&M’s Stance: Exploration and Human-Centric Approach
H&M spokesperson Hacan Andersson stated that the company is in the early stages of exploring this technology.
“We are simply investigating the possibilities and collaborating closely with industry creatives, agencies, and the models themselves. The models retain complete authority over when their ‘digital twin’ is utilized and, naturally, will receive compensation for its use,” Mr. Andersson explained.
Maintaining a Human Element
Jorgen Andersson, H&M’s Chief Creative Officer, emphasized the brand’s commitment to a “human-centric approach” in its application of this technology.
In an emailed statement released on Thursday, Mr. Andersson noted H&M’s “curiosity to discover innovative methods of presenting our fashion and to embrace the advantages of new technology, while remaining committed to personal style.”
Legal Protections for Models in the Digital Age
The Fashion Workers Act, a recently enacted New York State law set to take effect in June, is anticipated to address certain anxieties surrounding the use of AI by offering safeguards to models. These protections include mandates for pay transparency and control over their digital likenesses.
Legislative Support for Model Rights
State Senator Brad Hoylman-Sigal, a key proponent of the legislation, asserted that the labor law aims to “protect fashion models from financial exploitation and unauthorized use of their images.”
Evolving Legal Landscape of Digital Representation
While other states and European nations have existing laws concerning individual rights over digital replicas, New York’s legislation is distinctly tailored to the modeling profession.
Numerous models have voiced grievances regarding instances of finding unfamiliar faces digitally imposed on their bodies or lacking control over their earnings.
Indistinguishable Digital Twins and Industry Implications
Sara Ziff, a former model and founder of the Model Alliance, a model advocacy organization, remarked on the striking nature of H&M’s digital twin campaign.
“What’s particularly noteworthy about the H&M digital-twin campaign is the near identical resemblance of the digital representation to the model,” Ms. Ziff stated on Friday. “It genuinely raises questions about informed consent, fair compensation, and the potential for widespread displacement of fashion industry workers.”
Model Alliance Advocacy
The Model Alliance, which contributed to the development of the New York law, highlights cases where models’ generative AI images have been utilized without their knowledge, permission, or due compensation. The new legislation stipulates that modeling agencies cannot hold power of attorney over a digital replica and must secure a model’s explicit written consent outlining the terms of use and payment.
Types of AI Models in Fashion
AI-generated models broadly fall into two categories: fictitious representations of human models and digital replicas, which are images of real individuals adapted through technology, as exemplified by H&M’s “digital twins.”
Industry Trend: Balancing Brand Appeal and Costs
The integration of these digital representations within the high-value fashion industry has been progressing for several years, as global brands seek to reconcile brand attractiveness with transparency and cost efficiency.
Previous AI Initiatives in Fashion
- In 2011, H&M experimented with digitally superimposing real models’ faces onto computer-generated mannequins for an online swimwear promotion.
- In 2023, denim brand Levi Strauss announced plans to employ AI technology to broaden the representation of body types in their imagery, while emphasizing their ongoing commitment to employing live models.
- Last year, fashion brand Mango unveiled an AI-driven campaign for its teen clothing line. Jordi Alex, Mango’s Chief Information Technology Officer, commented in an announcement that the technology’s impact “will either make us more human or it won’t.”
Model Perspectives on Digital Twins
The Model Alliance’s recent newsletter assessed the H&M initiative, showcasing models alongside their digital counterparts with positive testimonials, including Ms. Gvarliani’s quote regarding her digital twin as a jet-lag-free version of herself.
Model Yar Aguer is also quoted alongside her digital twin, stating, “Finally a way for me to be in New York and Tokyo on the same day.”
Authenticity of Model Quotes Confirmed
When questioned on Friday about the veracity of these quotes, an H&M spokesperson affirmed, “I can verify that these are genuine quotes from the models.”