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Centuries-Old Ice Ridge Tradition Fades in Japan Amidst Warming Climate
For over six centuries, residents dwelling near Lake Suwa, nestled in the mountains of central Japan, have observed the depths of winter through a unique natural occurrence. This phenomenon, once venerated as the path of a wandering deity, is known as Miwatari – the sacred crossing. The tradition, deeply rooted in Shinto beliefs, is now threatened by climate change, as the frozen lake required for its appearance becomes increasingly rare. This article explores the history and significance of this fading winter tradition.
The Mystical Appearance of Miwatari
The Miwatari, a long, jagged ice ridge, would materialize only after prolonged periods of intensely cold weather had transformed Lake Suwa into a solid expanse of white ice. The event was often heralded by loud rumbling sounds during the night, followed by the dawn revealing the source: a serpentine formation of ice stretching across the lake’s surface, resembling the spine of a mythical dragon.
This “sacred crossing” held deep significance for the local community. Rooted in Shinto beliefs, it was interpreted as a visitation from a divine being. The appearance of the ice ridge not only inspired awe but also provided reassurance. Locals would venture onto the frozen lake to conduct ceremonies honoring this perceived supernatural visit. Conversely, in those infrequent winters when the Miwatari failed to appear, the absence was seen as an ominous signal, suggesting an imbalance in the natural order.
A Historical Record of Winters
The Miwatari‘s importance was underscored by the meticulous records kept by the residents. Since 1443, they have diligently documented its appearance, the condition of Lake Suwa, and accompanying historical events. This remarkable archive stands as a testament to centuries of consistently frigid winters in the region.
Changing Times: The Absence of Ice
However, recent years have brought a concerning shift in the narrative of Lake Suwa. The Miwatari has failed to form for the past seven winters due to the lake’s failure to completely freeze. While occasional ice-free years have occurred throughout history, such a prolonged absence is unprecedented in the archive, except for a single instance half a millennium ago.
In fact, Lake Suwa has experienced what locals term “an open sea,” meaning it hasn’t fully frozen over, in 18 of the last 25 years. Kiyoshi Miyasaka, the chief priest of Yatsurugi Shrine, the custodians of these records for 350 years, notes the increasing irregularity of ice formation since the 1980s. He and other residents attribute the disappearance of these age-old patterns to global climate change.
“A Bad Omen”: Community Concerns
“In former times, an open sea was considered a negative portent,” states Mr. Miyasaka, 74. His shrine, with its traditional stone gateway and tiled wooden buildings, stands near the lakeshore. “We are aware of the melting ice caps and Himalayan glaciers, but our own lake is also signaling a warning.”
Daily Vigil and Diminishing Memories
Each dawn throughout January and early February, Mr. Miyasaka and numerous parishioners congregate at the lake’s edge to ascertain if the god had journeyed across during the night. For several years, their vigils have yielded only disappointment.
Only older parishioners, those in their sixties and beyond, retain memories of a Miwatari substantial enough to generate nighttime rumblings. The last instance of an ice ridge forming was in 2018, and it was a mere six inches in height.
“When I was a child, the ice spikes were taller than me,” recalls Isao Nakazawa, 81, a retired auto worker. “We knew of its arrival by a sound like a taiko drum, ‘Gon-gon-gon!’”
Tradition in Modernity
In contemporary times, the Miwatari has largely lost its profound religious significance. Residents of Suwa, a tranquil city bordering the lake, now perceive it primarily as a local winter rite. The city mayor participates in the morning gatherings at the lake alongside the community.
Preserving Heritage, Facing the Future
“Continuing this tradition for 580 years unites our community,” comments Mayor Yukari Kaneko, 66. “I am concerned that current events serve as a caution to reconsider our way of life.”
Scientific Explanation vs. Cultural Loss
Science has demystified the formation of ice ridges, explaining their emergence through the physics of freezing and expansion. When Lake Suwa solidifies, its surface becomes a vast expanse of ice. On exceptionally cold nights, the ice contracts, creating fissures that fill with lake water, which subsequently freezes. As temperatures rise, the ice slab expands, forcing the newly formed ice upward into jagged formations.
Similar ice ridges manifest in other locations, such as Lake Mendota in Wisconsin. However, the historical records associated with these formations rarely match the depth and continuity of the Suwa chronicles.
“This chronicle holds unique value because the people have consistently documented the same phenomena in the same manner for centuries,” observes Dagomar Degroot, a professor of environmental history at Georgetown University. “It exemplifies a cultural heritage that is gradually vanishing and may not return.”
Continuing the Chronicle in the Face of Change
Despite his discouragement over the Miwatari‘s absence, Mr. Miyasaka remains committed to updating the archive.
“One cannot simply abandon something with over 580 years of history,” asserts Mr. Miyasaka, whose family has held the chief priest position for five generations. “I will not be the one to bring it to an end.”
His parishioners affirm their continued participation in monitoring the lake on winter mornings. “I feel a responsibility to perpetuate this history,” states Hiroyuki Okazaki, a 63-year-old carpenter.
Evolving Beliefs and the Modern Narrative
Neither Mr. Miyasaka nor his parishioners now believe in being forsaken by a deity. Contemporary Japan is largely secular. They are even uncertain which god was traditionally believed to traverse the lake, as ancient records lack a specific name. Shinto, as a form of animism, acknowledges countless deities inhabiting natural forces.
A modern narrative has emerged, depicting a male god crossing the lake to visit his consort. However, Mr. Miyasaka attributes this tale to local businesses seeking to attract tourism through romanticism. Some locals also modify “Miwatari” by adding an extra “o” to sound more modern, he notes.
Echoes of the Past: A Warning for the Future
The chief priest has examined every entry in the chronicle, including the oldest, now preserved in a museum. The majority of pages, inscribed with brushes and ink in hand-sewn books, recount the reassuring regularity of the Miwatari. Throughout the 17th century, the ice ridge failed to appear only twice.
In 1986, his father instructed him in the ceremony to honor the Miwatari‘s emergence, leading parishioners onto the frozen lake and waving a holly branch as the ice shifted beneath them. At the time, Mr. Miyasaka anticipated performing this ritual annually.
However, he has conducted the ceremony only nine times since. “When our ancestors created these records centuries ago, they never imagined they would tell such a story,” Mr. Miyasaka reflects. “They have become a warning about global warming.”