Fashion Industry’s Shift Away From Body Diversity Sparks Debate
The Food and Drug Administration’s approval of Ozempic for weight management in 2021 occurred around the same time as a decrease in runway model diversity. However, Mr. Bonnouvrier of DNA Models suggests a more fundamental shift is underway, arguing that the decline in body diversity reflects a broader retreat from social progressivism.
Cultural and Political Influences on Fashion Trends
“This is fundamentally a cultural discussion,” Mr. Bonnouvrier stated. He further suggested that brands are reducing inclusivity in modeling due to the current socio-political climate in the United States.
Cyclical Nature of Body Ideals and Current Political Climate
Sara Ziff, founder of the Model Alliance, an advocacy group for model rights, concurs with this assessment. She noted that extreme thinness in models is “not really new” and tends to be “cyclical.” However, Ziff added that the present resurgence of thinness “seems to reflect the current political environment.”
Industry’s Step Back from Progressive Values
“It’s disheartening to witness the industry regress,” Ms. Ziff commented. She expressed concern that the fashion industry, which has the platform to promote progressive ideals, appears to be yielding to regressive trends instead of challenging them.
Impact of DEI Scrutiny on Runway Representation
Mr. Bonnouvrier explained that societal pressure to diversify runway representation, driven by movements like #MeToo and Black Lives Matter, had previously led to a significant evolution in beauty standards. However, with Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) initiatives facing increased examination as part of a broader “war on wokeness,” this progress in fashion, including size diversity, is now being challenged. A return to more conventional and conservative methods of showcasing fashion implies a reversion to outdated beauty stereotypes. This typically results in homogeneous model casting, predominantly featuring white and thin individuals, despite such body types not accurately representing the diverse consumer base of the fashion industry.
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The Business Case for Inclusivity and Diverse Representation
Echoing this sentiment, Ms. Taymour emphasized the sound business rationale for clearly demonstrating a connection with “all types of your customer base,” encompassing all sizes. Sarah Burton, the former creative director of Alexander McQueen and current creative director of Givenchy, expressed similar views. Burton stated her intention for Givenchy to “celebrate the multiplicity, beauty and strength of womanhood, free of narrow definitions of how we should look or see ourselves.”
Continued Trend Towards Reduced Diversity
Despite these perspectives, the prevailing trend in the fashion industry continues to move toward less diversity.
Outlook on Future Trends
Mr. Bonnouvrier anticipates this trend will persist. “We perceive the door closing, gradually but unmistakably,” he concluded.