Shauna Coxsey can only laugh when asked how she feels about being dubbed Britain’s very own Spider-Woman. “I don’t really know what to say,” admits the 27-year-old. All the media attention ahead of her Olympic debut this summer is certainly new; not only for Coxsey, but for the sport she has devoted her life to since the age of four.
Climbing is one of five events which will make its Olympic debut this summer in Tokyo, and as the most successful British exponent of the sport, it is fitting Coxsey is Team GB’s first qualifier. “I would watch the Olympics as a kid and be inspired, but also quite disconnected too,” she says after being officially named in the British team on Tuesday. “You felt as a climber that you’d never get to that level. To get that chance now is incredible.”
Tokyo will be a watershed moment for Coxsey and British climbing, but it has not arrived without controversy. Coxsey is a master of the bouldering discipline of the sport, which requires competitors to navigate paths to the top of a previously-unseen wall, rope-free, against the clock. But at the Olympics, the three major disciplines of climbing – speed, bouldering and lead – have been united which, when the scores are multiplied together, will create one combined total that will determine the medallists.
It is a move that has caused considerable disquiet in the climbing community. “The reaction was one of confusion initially,” she admits. “There was a bit of upset amongst the community but when we learned from the IOC why it has happened, it was evident it was the right decision. It’s going to showcase the best of our sport across the disciplines. I think the crowds are going to be amazed with what they see.”
Coxsey, a winner of the Bouldering World Cup on two occasions, has had to intensify her rigorous regime to ready her for multiple disciplines, but this summer will be the culmination of a journey that began in Runcorn before she had even started school, when she was captivated by the legendary French mountain climber Catherine Destivelle. “I saw Catherine climbing up these cliffs in Africa when I was four and I was just in awe,” she reflects.
“From there, we found a local centre and my dad helped teach me. As kids we all climb up trees and want to get as high as possible. We stop when we’re older, but there’s no reason to do that, is there? Hopefully this summer we show that you can still do it and have fun no matter what your ability. Climbing is something everyone can relate to from their childhood.”
Only 20 women will compete for the inaugural climbing medals at this year’s Games. Coxsey is likely to be the only British inclusion with a brutal final qualifier taking place in Moscow in April. In Tokyo she will face competition from the likes of Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret and the legendary Japanese climber, Akiyo Noghuci. Any thought of a podium finish is far from Coxsey’s mind yet.
“I train at lots of different places – I’ve even got a climbing wall built in my cellar which is really cool,” Coxsey says. “I have access to a lot of different stuff but it’s between four and eight hours a day, usually for six or seven days a week. There’s some off-the-wall training too; I’ve been strengthening my fingers to get them ready for all the disciplines. It’s tough, but I wouldn’t change it for the world.”
Speed climbing forces competitors to ascend 15m as quickly as possible. Lead involves trying to climb as high as possible while tethered to the wall within an allotted time period. These are then added to bouldering to make the combined score.
It sounds confusing initially, but Coxsey is confident the public will be quickly enamoured. “I think it’s going to be incredible,” she says, smiling. “When you’re at a climbing event, the buzz you get from a crowd is just incredible. As a spectator it’s going to be insane to watch all these different disciplines and different elements going on. We can all relate to climbing. It’s tough for us, to train for them all … but it’s going to be fun for everyone else.”
As a multiple British champion and two-time World Cup winner, Coxsey has scaled the proverbial wall already during her career. Tokyo, with its mainstream spotlight and attention, provides both Coxsey and climbing with a new opportunity to shine. “Our sport really does meet the Olympic motto of faster, higher, stronger. To be here now, preparing for the Olympics and being involved with Team GB is incredible. If more people see us showcasing that you can climb regardless of your age, that’ll be amazing.”