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The scenario is a familiar one: a sprawling residential development on the city’s edge, envisioned as a beacon of hope for those in need of affordable housing, gradually succumbs to decay, burdened by declining conditions, social seclusion, and increasing crime. Les Espaces d’Abraxas (The Spaces of Abraxas), an iconic, high-density housing complex in Noisy-le-Grand, just outside Paris, serves as a key example. Opened in 1983, this massive, postmodern structure was intended to improve living standards for families displaced from central Paris. This article delves into the past and present of this ambitious, and ultimately troubled, social experiment in French suburban planning.
A Post-War Housing Solution
Following World War II, France experienced a surge in population and increased immigration, leading to crowded conditions in Paris. Young families struggled to find homes near the city center, which motivated authorities to expand suburban zones with new apartment projects. In 1978, architect Ricardo Bofill was selected to design one such development in Noisy-le-Grand, a town characterized by traditional low-rise houses.
Architectural Aspirations
During the complex’s design phase, the renowned Spanish architect aimed to create an environment where ordinary residents wouldn’t have to reside in uninspiring, monotonous apartment blocks.The outcome was a striking, monumental concrete complex. According to the architecture website Arch Daily, the estate possesses an “otherworldly atmosphere existing somewhere between a ‘new world’ utopian dream and a postmodern, neoclassical housing estate.”
From Architectural Icon to Social Housing Crisis
Decades later, this highly photogenic project, once celebrated for its bold design that led to its inclusion in action films such as The Hunger Games and Harry Potter’s Deathly Hallows, has become emblematic of France’s social housing challenges. The complex now faces difficulties related to aging infrastructure, inadequate maintenance, and elevated crime rates.
The Allure and Peril of Dark Tourism
Often, these locations attract tourists, drawn by the distinctive architecture and the appeal of discovering something beyond typical attractions.
Experiences of Visitors
- One visitor recounting their ordeal on Google Maps noted being accosted while taking photographs in broad daylight. The assailant demanded the deletion of images and money, threatening the visitor with a knife upon refusal.
- Another visitor warned on Tripadvisor: “I almost had my expensive camera stolen and had to run to escape. It is not worth the curiosity and is full of thugs and drug dealers. AVOID!”
Conflicting Perspectives
Contrary to these perspectives, some visitors expressed feeling neither unsafe nor unwelcome. They cautioned against disrespecting residents, urging fellow tourists to be mindful and refrain from taking photographs. Some criticized French authorities for neglect, advocating for municipal renovation funds.
Attempts at Renovation
In 2006, plans were made to demolish portions of the complex, but residents resisted, leading to the project’s abandonment. Recently, one of France’s largest property owners, CDC Habitat, initiated a substantial renovation project at Espaces Abraxas, as reported by the French news outlet BFM TV.
With a budget of 16 million euros, the initiative seeks to revitalize the façades of the Palacio d’Abraxas, upgrade the plumbing and ventilation systems, and modernize all elevators. The estimated completion date is set for 2027.