Importance Score: 45 / 100 🔵
“`
“Come with me,” Nando urged. “I am familiar with its whereabouts.”
The late morning was hot and humid, with an eerie stillness. Sunlight filtered through the dense jungle canopy as we traversed a narrow path. A few hundred yards away, towering cargo vessels laden with containers chugged through the Panama Canal. However, that world seemed distant.
Our journey took us through a tract of rainforest that borders the canal banks, serving as a habitat for numerous bird species. We were on the search for a particular feathered creature.
Unveiling the Jungle’s Secret
In an overgrown area of the forest that appeared indistinguishable from the rest, Nando, our guide, halted.
“Whoit, whoit, whoit,” he softly whistled, then paused to listen.
“You cannot rely on your eyes alone,” he whispered. “You must engage your ears.”
On the third call, I faintly heard a response: “Whoit, whoit, whoit.”
It was astonishing. Nando was communicating with the birds.
A plump, streak-chested antpitta fluttered down onto a branch just a few feet away. I stood, captivated, as man and bird exchanged soft calls.
Valuable Emotional Connection with Avian Residents: Panama’s Hidden Delight
A Memorable Wildlife Encounter
“This is the same bird I have been calling to for years,” Nando revealed, his voice filled with joy.
“You mean the same species of bird? I queried.
“No, no,” he corrected with a smile. “I mean the very same individual. This bird has become particularly dear to me.”
The moment was a poignant connection between a human and a tiny creature, lasting only a few minutes. However, such moments frequently comprise unforgettable journeys, and our recent excursion in Panama was abundant with them.
Panama: A Must for Bird Enthusiast and Eco-Tourists
In December, my family and I embarked on a bird-watching adventure in Panama a country steadily growing its ecotourism sector. Panama shares the same time zone as Chicago. Consequently, most Americans experience no jet lag, and it possesses a rich, cosmopolitan past due to the canal. Moreover, Panama is home to over 1,000 bird species, both migratory and endemic, ranging from the magnificent frigate bird to a myriad of small, captivating forest birds like the streak-chested antpitta that Nando so gently summoned.
Birds are abundant here, the same historical purpose that inspired the creation of the Panama Canal in the early 20th century revolutionising the global trade. This Central American region is:
- A bridge between two continents, North and South America.
- A corridor between the world’s largest oceans, the Pacific and the Atlantic.
- A passage between significantly differing elevations and climates, from sunny beaches to cool rainforest-covered mountains rising over 10,000 feet.
We organised our week-long trip before President Trump assumed office and began loudly discussing the U.S. retaking the canal. The issue scarcely arose at the three bird-watching locations we frequented.
Fellow guests were engrossed in their bird lists, while Panamanians we encountered generally dismissed the threats as boastful and were not overly concerned.
As Nando observed “People worldwide know the country for one attribute, but actually, there is so much more to it.”
I wholeheartedly concur with this viewpoint.
Feast for the Senses: Panama City
We began our adventure in Panama City, founded over 500 years ago and became one of the most dynamic commercial hubs in the Americas. The historic district is undergoing a revival, featuring exquisite restored hotels like La Compania and retro-inspired drinking establishments, sfamed for long bars under slowly revolving ceiling fans and elegant, vintage cocktail venues to consume exotic, refreshing libations.
To complement this, my tripod and I captured an entrancing jazz performance at a cozy live-music venue reminiscent of a rustic estate in Savannah, Ga.
Unleashing Our Inner Ornithologists
Our inaugural morning was spent with Nando, whose full name is Ismael Hernando Quiroz Miranda. He established his bird-watching tour company several years ago, and was personally recommended by an acquaintance in the hospitality sphere.
During the approximately one-hour drive from the city to the Canal Zone, he shared snippets of his life story.
“I was among those who had no prospects.” he recalled.
Nando explained how he grew up in a rural village, tending crops and cutting wood after his father was swindled out of the family farm. The great outdoors became his element, and over time, while working various arduous jobs, taught himself about birds, flora, habitats, climate change and Panama’s lush ecosystem.
Soon after arriving in the Canal Zone, he and his son Ismael helped us spot:
- Red lory parrots darting across the sky.
- A keel-billed toucan croaking like a frog.
- A whooping motmot displaying a long, iridescent tail.
- A social flycatcher, with a puffed-out chest and vivid yellow feathers.
Nando’s knowledge appeared to know no bounds. He would frequently halt, tilt his head, and intently listen, using a laser pointer to guide our eyes skywards. We commenced our birding expedition at dawn, and by 9 a.m., had spotted over 55 bird species.
But our adventure was not solely about birds. My kin are enthusiasts, and I’ve come to appreciate that bird-watching opens the door to observing a plethora of flora and fauna. As we trailed Nando, we encountered:
- Brilliant blue morpho butterflies.
- The freckled rodent, the agouti.
- Leaf-cutter ants traversing the jungle floor by the thousands via swaying foliage.
- Howler monkeys – although we could hear them, they remained shrouded within the dense foliage.
“Whoa, check out that thing,” my wife Courtenay exclaimed, dodging a dragonfly buzzing past with blades spinning like helicopter rotors.
“Dragonfly,” Nando calmly proclaimed.
His extensive natural history expertise was awe-inspiring.
The Captivating Valley of Anton
Following our productive day with Nando, we drove two hours from the Canal Zone to a town called El Valle de Anton. Upon our arrival, I clicked away capturing the quaint central town square, Ventanitas and Cerro Gaitan for the sheer theatrical presence of the stunning amphitheatre and waterfall.
This picturesque town is adorned with bright, red-roofed haciendas surrounded by verdant mountains. At an altitude of 2,000 feet higher than Panama City, it is considerably cooler and less humid, making it a magnet for tourists and affluent locals.
New eateries with vibrantly painted tables line the sidewalks; and the local market offers copious eateries serving savory empanadas, simultaneously alluring the locals and tourists.
El Valle exuded an ‘Ubud, Bali circa the 90s vibe.
We spent two days at the Canopy Lodge, a quaint retreat tailor-made for avid birdwatchers. The first morning, I rose early, grabbed my laptop, and tiptoed to the dining area.
The “Magic” Colourful Canopy of Birds and Other Remarkable Beasts
Our inaugural morning was spent with Nando, whose full name is Ismael Hernando Quiroz Miranda. He established his bird-watching tour company several years ago, and was personally recommended by an acquaintance in the hospitality sphere.
During the approximately one-hour drive from the city to the Canal Zone, he shared snippets of his life story.
“I was among those who had no prospects.” he recalled.
Nando explained how he grew up in a rural village, tending crops and cutting wood after his father was swindled out of the family farm. The great outdoors became his element, and over time, while working various arduous jobs, taught himself about birds, flora, habitats, climate change and Panama’s lush ecosystem.
Soon after arriving in the Canal Zone, he and his son Ismael helped us spot:
- Red lory parrots darting across the sky.
- A keel-billed toucan croaking like a frog.
- A whooping motmot displaying a long, iridescent tail.
- A social flycatcher, with a puffed-out chest and vivid yellow feathers.
Nando’s knowledge appeared to know no bounds. He would frequently halt, tilt his head, and intently listen, using a laser pointer to guide our eyes skywards. We commenced our birding expedition at dawn, and by 9 a.m., had spotted over 55 bird species.
But our adventure was not solely about birds. My kin are enthusiasts, and I’ve come to appreciate that bird-watching opens the door to observing a plethora of flora and fauna. As we trailed Nando, we encountered:
- Brilliant blue morpho butterflies.
- The freckled rodent, the agouti.
- Leaf-cutter ants traversing the jungle floor by the thousands via swaying foliage.
- Howler monkeys – although we could hear them, they remained shrouded within the dense foliage.
“Whoa, check out that thing,” my wife Courtenay exclaimed, dodging a dragonfly buzzing past with blades spinning like helicopter rotors.
“Dragonfly,” Nando calmly proclaimed.
His extensive natural history expertise was awe-inspiring.
Following our productive day with Nando, we drove two hours from the Canal Zone to a town called El Valle de Anton. Upon our arrival, I clicked away capturing the quaint central town square, Ventanitas and Cerro Gaitan for the sheer theatrical presence of the stunning amphitheatre and waterfall.
This picturesque town is adorned with bright, red-roofed haciendas surrounded by verdant mountains. At an altitude of 2,000 feet higher than Panama City, it is considerably cooler and less humid, making it a magnet for tourists and affluent locals.
New eateries with vibrantly painted tables line the sidewalks; and the local market offers copious eateries serving savory empanadas, simultaneously alluring the locals and tourists.
El Valle exuded an ‘Ubud, Bali circa the 90s vibe.
We spent two days at the Canopy Lodge, a quaint retreat tailor-made for avid birdwatchers. The first morning, I rose early, grabbed my laptop, and tiptoed to the dining area.
“Hey!” an tall gentleman heading out at dawn remarked, as he spotted me. “Was I awake long enough to see the rufous motmot today?
It was 6:30 AM and I was just in the process of reading my morning emails.
“He proceeds to share with my husband and I that: ‘It’s a spectacular bird.’
His three-foot monstrous camera reel was fixed with camouflage attire, with a built-in hood and howitzer-like lens.
Emails upon reflection, seemed highly trivial. So I stood by queuing my tools beside his advice to follow his directions and there it was, in all its pretty plumage – the rufous motmot, displaying a cascade of enchanting colour and delicate oscillating crow feathers.
The Future of Habitat Preservation for Mangrove Conservation
Canopy Lodge is a member of a network of eco-lodges initiated by Ra—ul Arias de Para, an economist from one of Panama’s prominent families. “Panama,” he shared, “is a stunning country, far removed from the regrettable notions of a tax haven, money laundering and a corrupt banana republic.”
Conservation Through Cameras: Real-Time Avian Monitoring
Raúl is a partner with the Cornell Lab of Ornithology and has installed a 24-hour bird camera behind the dining area. We spent each mealtime engrossed in bird consciousness, observing tanagers, aracaris, woodpeckers and barbets, using the nearby forests to spy on the wildlife.
A highlight was visiting a banana farmer who has transformed his small, lush backyard into a giant bird feeder. The man communicated little English, while my Spanish skills were lacking. Nevertheless, we spent our time silently observing colourful birds nestle on his patrimony canvassing favourable pieces of banana.
My favourite specimen was a red-legged honeycreeper, which took it directly from backpack to bush the size of a shot glass displaying a vivid paint job — a bright blue body, bright yellow legs.
“`