Embarking on the Challenging Cactus to Clouds Hike near Palm Springs
Approaching the summit along the path near the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, the trail became noticeably precipitous, layered with inches of yielding, fallen pine needles and interspersed with pine cones, posing a potential hazard for hikers. The welcome canopy of shade was a stark contrast to the preceding seven miles of the demanding Cactus to Clouds hike, which had offered scant respite from the sun’s intensity.
Having already ascended 7,549 vertical feet, the final 3,000 feet to the apex of Mount San Jacinto, a prominent granite peak west of Palm Springs, California, still lay ahead.
For this, my third endeavor on the Cactus to Clouds trail, a mid-November day provided ideal conditions. The 22-mile hike ascends continuously and relentlessly uphill for the initial 16 miles, climbing from the desert floor to the 10,834-foot summit. The subsequent six miles and 2,400-foot descent lead to the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, culminating in a scenic ride down, an experience well justifying the tram ticket cost.
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My journey commenced near the Palm Springs Art Museum at an elevation of 482 feet shortly after sunrise at 6:41 a.m. I carried sufficient water anticipating the first water source, a ranger station situated at 8,400 feet, and several layers of jackets to accommodate the dramatic temperature fluctuations from the base to the peak.
Numerous motivations drive individuals to attempt the Cactus to Clouds hike. It stands out as one of the most biodiverse day hikes nationwide, delivering an unusual wilderness experience at the edge of an urban expanse. Perhaps foremost is the sheer ambitious nature of the undertaking. In prior ascents, each following a significant personal ordeal – a multiple sclerosis diagnosis, divorce, and completion of treatment for Stage 3 breast cancer – the driving force was the conviction that confronting this challenge would leave minimal capacity for self-pity. Successful completion, in each case, affirmed resilience and the capacity to overcome adversity.
On this occasion, with M.S. in remission, a fulfilling marriage, and nearly nine years of being cancer-free, the focus shifted to the landscape itself. A pocket guide to the flora of the San Jacinto Mountains accompanied me, with plans to pause and appreciate the natural environment.
While the complete Cactus to Clouds route is suited for highly fit individuals, accessible segments cater to varied abilities. A leisurely mile-long walk from the trailhead to a picnic area and return is an option. Alternatively, taking the tram to the upper station followed by a climb to the summit of Mount San Jacinto and back is another. One could even hike to the tram’s upper station and descend via the tram, reserving the summit ascent for a subsequent day, as was my approach this time due to unexpected foot discomfort. Each variation offers rewards such as expansive views of the Coachella Valley and opportunities to observe cactus wrens, Cooper’s hawks, and golden eagles.
Mind-Boggling Biodiversity and Aromas
While Mount San Jacinto’s altitude is not exceptionally high, the vertical gain from base to summit is noteworthy. The mountain ascends approximately 10,400 vertical feet within roughly six horizontal miles. This steep gradient, nearly equivalent to climbing Mount Everest in terms of vertical ascent, explains the remarkable diversity of plant life encountered through four distinct life zones.
The trail’s beginning features desert flora like barrel cactus and creosote, progressing to chaparral, scrub oak, and manzanita. Subsequently, a mixed pine forest emerges. At the summit, the trees grow shorter and more contorted, shaped by the altitude and weather, including limber pine, which thrives in harsh conditions.
“The landscape and biota differ dramatically between the Colorado-Sonoran Desert floor and the peak of Mount San Jacinto,” noted Melanie Davis, a leading field botanist at the Center for Conservation Biology at the University of California, Riverside, in a pre-hike interview. However, she emphasized that the intermediate zones exhibit the greatest intrigue. “The most substantial biodiversity will be concentrated there.”
Ms. Davis’s observation proved accurate. Between elevations of 7,000 and 8,000 feet, the color green manifested in an astonishing array of forms, textures, shades, and dimensions, accompanied by a spectrum of surprising fragrances. The experience resembled traversing a vast salad bowl: cedar, manzanita, oak, and agave, with Jeffrey pines adding subtle notes of butterscotch to the air.
Extreme Temperature Variations
The very conditions that define Cactus to Clouds also contribute to its inherent risks. Hikers on this trail have tragically succumbed to dehydration and exposure. “We typically encounter approximately one fatality per year,” stated Eric Holden, a volunteer with Riverside Mountain Rescue, one of the search-and-rescue teams serving distressed hikers on the route.
To safeguard both hikers and rescue personnel, Mount San Jacinto State Park implements seasonal closures along portions of the trail under its jurisdiction, specifically during summer (extreme heat at lower elevations) and winter (snow and freezing temperatures at higher elevations). In 2024, the trail was closed from early July until reopening on November 4.
Limited shade characterizes the initial 7,000 vertical feet, and no water sources are available for the first 10 miles. “A significant danger arises when hikers start upwards, realize their physical limitations, and then decide to turn back,” Mr. Holden cautioned. “While temperatures might have been cooler at their 3 a.m. starting time, they may now find themselves hiking downwards into temperatures potentially exceeding 100 degrees and feeling unwell.”
In winter, snow can obscure the trail, particularly in the 1,000 feet below the tram summit, leading to hikers becoming stranded among cliffs. Maintaining the correct path in this segment involved following a GPS track recorded during a previous Cactus to Clouds hike.
A Demanding ‘Super-Day Hike’ Designation
Backpacker magazine designates Cactus to Clouds as the fifth most challenging day hike in America. Completion typically ranges from 12 to 16 hours. During the relentless ascent, attempts to find amusement involved identifying the precise species of manzanita brushing against my legs, offering limited distraction. A rest stop on a flat boulder 6,000 feet above the trailhead, alongside what appeared to be either pink-bracted or green-leaf manzanita, provided a brief respite.
At least the direction of travel was uphill. Most experienced hikers acknowledge that while ascending is strenuous, descending can be exceptionally punishing on the body. Indeed, the Cactus to Clouds challenge became feasible largely because the majority of the descent is facilitated by the tram.
“We were dedicated hiking enthusiasts always seeking demanding adventures,” recounted Sue Birnbaum, a member of the six-person Coachella Valley Hiking Club team that first completed the annual Cactus to Clouds Challenge in 1993. “However, the event likely wouldn’t have gained traction if it necessitated hiking all the way back down.”
This challenge, termed an “extraordinary super-day hike,” combines three existing trails – the Museum, Skyline, and Mount San Jacinto Peak Trails – traversing a mix of local, state, and federal lands, as well as property of the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation, linked with the tram, which has been operational since 1963. The mountain itself lies within the ancestral territory of the Cahuilla Nation.
Summiting with Unparalleled Views
A notable paradox of Cactus to Clouds: optimal conditions involve cloudless skies. Clouds can obstruct panoramic views and occasionally obscure the trail itself. This particular ascent presented a different kind of paradox: despite having previously hiked the summit trail independently, a surge of accomplishment arose from heeding my body’s signals and protecting my sore foot.
Against a backdrop of the Pacific Ocean, the shimmering Salton Sea, and the rugged, sacred Tahquitz Peak, magnificent, cauliflower-like clouds floated thousands of feet below. With approximately 90 minutes until sunset, they captured and reflected hues akin to those found in mango ice cream.
Despite the warm orange tints spreading across the sky, the summit was frigid, buffeted by strong wind gusts. Bundled in three jackets, including a hooded down coat, an additional layer would have been welcome. Thus, while the desire to linger was strong, preventing frostbite took precedence.
Returning along the boulder-strewn path to the main trail, the direction turned downhill towards the tram, passing through a patch of what was identified as bush chinquapin. My pocket guide indicated its fruits possess a chestnut-like flavor. On the next Cactus to Clouds endeavor, sampling them will be a priority.
If You Go
The Cactus to Clouds trailhead is located just north of the Palm Springs Art Museum, approximately six and a half miles from the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway base. Post-hike, ride-sharing services such as Uber and Lyft offer transportation back to the trailhead parking area.