Burberry announces Yorkshire-born Daniel Lee as its next creative director

Fashion house Burberry has revealed that Daniel Lee will replace Riccardo Tisci as its next creative director from the start of next week.

Tisci, 48, has overseen a transformative but tumultuous period at the British clothing powerhouse since becoming creative head four years ago, having spent over a decade in the same role at Givenchy.

Meanwhile, Lee, born in Bradford, Yorkshire, was a virtual unknown outside the fashion world before he became the creative director at Italian luxury brand Bottega Veneta from 2018 to 2021.

He helped reinvigorate the company by introducing accessories like the ‘pouch’ clutch bag, which became the fastest-selling bag in its history and was adorned by models Kylie Jenner and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and actress Salma Hayek.

When Tisci joined Burberry, the Italian native – who just presented the latest Burberry collection at London Fashion Week – immediately set his mark by introducing a new logo that paid homage to company founder Thomas Burberry.

He ended the use of fur in the group’s clothing, expanded its sportswear and streetwear ranges, focused on appealing to a younger audience and launched campaigns involving the likes of supermodel Gisele Bündchen.

But the group was knocked off course by the pandemic causing a massive downturn in the global apparel sector as consumers stayed home and upmarket hospitality events were cancelled.

Trade has revived as lockdown restrictions have been loosened, but sales in China, Burberry’s largest market, have been heavily impacted this year by the country’s zero-Covid policy.

Demand outside mainland China has continued to recover, though, with leather goods and outwear purchases expanding by double-digit percentage levels in the first quarter due to high interest in its Lola handbag range, jackets and rainwear.

Burberry chief executive Jonathan Akeroyd said Tisci had ‘enhanced our creative language, modernised and elevated our product offer and brought a new generation of luxury customers to our brand.’

Regarding Tisci’s successor, Akeroyd called Lee ‘an exceptional talent with a unique understanding of today’s luxury consumer and a strong record of commercial success, and his appointment reinforces the ambitions we have for Burberry.’

While at Bottega Veneta, the brand brought square-toe heeled shoes back on trend, replaced monthly fashion shows with private ‘Salon’ events and launched a digital journal after closing its social media accounts.

Bottega Veneta’s sales grew significantly during Lee’s relatively short tenure, increasing from around €1.2billion in 2019 to more than €1.5billion two years later.

It was one of the few luxury fashion houses owned by French conglomerate Kering, whose brands include Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga, to report an increase in revenues in 2020.

Following the announcement of Lee’s selection, Burberry Group shares grew 5.5 per cent to 1,776.5p, making it one of the FTSE 350 Index’s top ten performers. 

Russ Mould, investment director at AJ Bell, said the rising share price was ‘perplexing given the news that chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci is leaving, as he was well respected. 

He added that Burberry’s main issue was the effect that Covid rules are having on demand, especially in China, rather than the popularity of its new scarfs and coats. 

‘Solving that problem is currently far more important to its business than what Lee might conjure up with a pen and sketchbook,’ he remarked.

Lee’s arrival comes just a few days after Burberry announced that Julie Brown would be stepping down as chief operating and financial officer in April next year. 

Brown will take up the chief executive post at GlaxoSmithKline, thereby making the pharmaceutical firm the largest London-listed business with a female boss.