With a nod to vermouth and other bitter Italian drinks, Bittersweet Aperitivo, a new contender from Wilderton, a nonalcoholic spirits company in Portland, Ore., is a cocktail hour success. It’s the company’s third such product in its two-year history and its best by a long shot. The reddish drink, long on the botanical components with a touch of chardonnay juice, delivers a boldly herbal aroma and a sharp edge, more bitter than sweet. Pour it on the rocks with a smidgen of fresh orange juice and a swipe of the peel on the rim of the glass. (The other two drinks from the company, Earthen and Lustre, are rather sour.)
Wilderton Bittersweet Aperitivo, $34.99 for 750 milliliters, wildertonfree.com.
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