After several weeks of hospitalization (unrelated to Covid-19), my mother is back home, snug and settled in the same Brooklyn house where I grew up. To celebrate that, and Mother’s Day, I baked her a challah.
It’s the same challah recipe I always use, rich with orange and olive oil, and very adaptable as long as you have flour, eggs and yeast.
To make it, measure out ½ cup liquid: Freshly squeezed orange juice (usually from 2 oranges), tangerine juice, apple cider or water all work well. (Don’t use bottled orange juice, which may contain preservatives that can inhibit the yeast.) If you warm the liquid to 110 degrees, the dough will rise a little faster, but it’s not necessary.
Sprinkle liquid with 2 ¼ teaspoons/7 grams yeast (1 packet), either dry active or instant, and let it be until it foams slightly, 5 to 10 minutes.
Mix in ⅓ cup olive oil (or another mild oil like sunflower or grapeseed, or melted and cooled butter), 2 eggs, 1 egg yolk, 3 tablespoons granulated or brown sugar, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, and ½ teaspoon grated orange zest, if you like.
When it’s well combined, add 3 cups/360 grams bread flour. (All-purpose flour will also work here.) Using a mixer with a dough hook, or by hand, knead the dough until it’s smooth and elastic, adding more flour as needed. Go by feel. It will be a sticky, soft dough, and you’ll know you’re done kneading when it stretches if you pull it. It will take about 5 minutes in a mixer, 10 to 15 by hand.
Put the dough blob in an oiled bowl, turning to coat it with oil. Cover and let rise in a warm spot. It should double, or almost double, in bulk. This can take 2 to 3 hours, or even a little longer, because of the richness of the eggs and oil.
[For more, see Melissa Clark’s classic olive oil challah recipe on NYT Cooking.]
Press the air out of the dough, cover the bowl again, and let the dough rise for another 45 minutes.
Now, you can braid it in the traditional way: Cut the dough into three equal pieces, roll into ropes about 12-inches long, and braid them, tucking the ends under.
Or you can do what I did and make a round challah. Usually, a round challah shape is reserved for Rosh Hashana. But because it symbolizes the continuous cycle of passing years, offering hope, I decided that was what I wanted to make. Plus, I think shaping it is fun.
It’s harder to explain than to watch, so here’s a short, good video.
Place the challah on a parchment-lined (or greased) baking sheet, and brush the top with an egg wash (1 egg beaten with a teaspoon of water). Let rise uncovered for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until it looks puffy. Brush the top again with a second coating of egg wash.
Bake at 375 degrees until the loaf is golden brown all over and the bottom sounds hollow when tapped. Start checking the loaf when you can smell it. In all, it should take 22 to 35 minutes, depending on your oven. Let cool on a rack.
This recipe gives you a dark, glossy challah, but if you want it more golden and a little softer, bake it at 350 degrees for a few minutes longer. Transfer the pan to a rack to cool completely before slicing.
You may not be able to take a loaf to your mom this weekend, but you can slather butter on a thick slice in her honor, and maybe tell her you’re thinking of her. It’s not as good as a hug, but under the circumstances, it might be as close as we can get.
This is part of a series in which Melissa Clark teaches you how to cook with pantry staples. See more.