Pizzo Calabro, Italy (Image: Getty Images)
Cold Aperol spritz in hand and gazing out towards the pool where my nine-year-old daughter Violet is on a giant inflatable lollipop, I kick back and relax in my chair. Just perfect. This is how the days roll by at the four-star TUI Magic Life Resort in Calabria, the firm’s new all-inclusive resort situated in the “toe” of the boot-shaped peninsula of southwest Italy. Just across the sea from Sicily, this region has been relatively unknown to us Brits. Italians from the north spend their summers here, and it’s a sun-drenched area of rugged mountains, old-fashioned villages and dramatic coastlines, with many popular beaches.
Strictly speaking it’s not a brand-new resort – TUI have taken over a former Club Med hotel – but it’s clear that more than just a lick of paint has gone into the group’s first TUI Magic Life resort in Italy.
Claiming to be the first UK operator selling holidays to Calabria, the major revamp has included the renovation of rooms, bathrooms, restaurants and sports areas and the creation of a fab new splash park and four pools. The resort also prides itself on offering an action-packed itinerary, with a comprehensive cycling programme, 11 tennis and three volleyball courts, gym and archery range.
It targets couples as well as families as adults can book the private lodge area, an oasis of tranquillity with an exclusive pool.
That is exactly where I headed after booking Violet into a morning of archery and tennis with the kids’ club. “I’ll see you later, darling,” I mouthed, and ran off as fast as my flip-flops allowed me. I tried not to feel guilty thinking of her playing in 40°C heat while I nursed a cold beer and nibbled on crisps under a parasol and WhatsApped friends without interruption.
Like parents across the land, the thing I desired more than anything was a moment to myself away from the daily juggle of lunch boxes, school runs and after-school activities while balancing a full-time job.
One of several pools at the TUI Magic Life Resort (Image: Getty Images)
Later, and feeling refreshed, I met Violet and we headed to the resort’s private beach.
The white sands are a 10-minute walk away but we didn’t mind since the path took us through a beautiful pine forest. After the claustrophobic heat, the cover and earthy scents were welcome.
We arrived and headed to the water sports station. Without even having to book, we borrowed a canoe for an hour for free (for a small fee we could also have booked a catamaran or gone windsurfing).
Before I could blink we were in open water and Violet was chuckling away at my lack of paddling prowess.
Activities checked, and feeling hungry, we headed back to the main resort where there is a brilliant buffet in the main area for everyday dining and believe me, Violet took full advantage.
If you fancy a change in the evenings, Trattoria is one of the two more upscale restaurants at the resort, and there is also a beach-side venue. Families are allowed one free restaurant dinner per holiday, and if you want to go back you will have to pay €10 each.
The open-air Trattoria is on the second floor and overlooks the main pool and square, with picturesque mountains in the distance. With a chilled glass in hand, you can enjoy the view and feel smugly superior.
Here, you have no choice of what you eat – they just bring everything out – and it made a nice change from the daily agonising at the buffet.
Violet and I sat back and gawped as a succession of Calabria’s finest dishes arrived, an intensely creamy burrata, deeply cheesy crusty-topped aubergine Parmigiana and salt-crusted, olive oil-saturated focaccia bread.
Then the starters arrived!
Calabrese pasta with corte d’assisi sauce and yellow polenta. Typical Brits, we’d peaked too early and stuffed ourselves with the bread basket. Hanging our heads in shame, we had to send back the main courses which included wild boar stew.
After a few days of pure indulgence, we were itching to explore the local area and headed out by taxi to the nearest town, Pizzo – a pretty place on a hillside overlooking the Gulf of Saint Euphemia.
Sharon and Violet enjoyed the hotel (Image: Sharon van Geuns)
This area is known as the Coast of the Gods and the views reminded me of the Amalfi Coast, with sapphire seas, emerald hillsides and rooftops in all shades of sun-bleached terracotta.
We explored the castle and bought some tourist tat, plus some local sausage and a magnificent kiwi jam. But there was another reason for visiting: the town is famous for ‘tartufo di Pizzo’, a speciality where spheres of gelato are wrapped around a core of oozing chocolate or fruit and given a chocolate shell.
The main square is a menagerie of ice cream parlours and, with difficulty, we chose one and were brought probably the best, most indulgent dessert either of us had ever tasted. Heaven in a glass.
As Violet licked her chocolate-smeared lips, she made me promise she could have a dip in the resort pool before bed. In any case, we had to get back for a quick rave at the mini disco.
I had to smile. When your child is happy, you know you’ve got something right, and TUI Magic Life Calabria certainly ticked many boxes for us. Aperol spritz anyone?
MY VIEW, BY VIOLET, AGED NINE
I mostly enjoyed the pool. There were four pools at the resort, but to my surprise two were blocked just for the adults to relax in.
Violet’s tartufo di Pizzo (Image: Sharon van Geuns)
The kids’ club is great fun and we did things like baking cookies, a tennis learning experience and pool games. Mum got a break, too, from looking after me!
When I first got there the first thing I saw were lizards. They were everywhere. The minute I saw one I ran after it but they were so fast I couldn’t even catch one.
One of my favourite things was the food, especially breakfast. Mum let me eat as many pancakes as I wanted. They had so much tasty food it was hard to choose.
My room was really nice because it had an upstairs and an amazing view of mountains. It was cosy but spacious.
There was a relaxing beach and the sea was clear, with many fish swimming around.You could even do water sports there and mummy and I went out on a canoe.
In Pizzo we got the most amazing ice-cream.
The resort is so kid-friendly. It gets a big tick from me.
THE KNOWLEDGE
TUI offers seven nights staying all-inclusive at the 4* Tui Magic Life Calabria from £561 per person based on two adults and two children sharing, including Gatwick flights departing September 28 and transfers (tui.co.uk).