Red worms have been labeled as compost wonders, and are actually great at what they do. They help loosen and aerate the soil; as well as produce nutrient-filled natural fertilizers that you can use for your soil and plants (and more other interesting facts about vermicomposting). So to be able to get a regular supply of all these goodies, than you may have to start by making your own, building a worm farm that is.
You can either buy a commercial unit for where to keep your worms, or make your own homemade worm bins (wood containers are absorbent and good insulators by the way). Also, use only Red Worms or Tiger Worms for this composting activity, as Night Crawlers or the usual garden worms are the wrong type of worms to use. Anyway, what you can do next is to set up your system.
Setting up a system for your worm bin can be made easy, and can be easily assembled (can be in the form of stackable crates or bins where you’ll see worms climb to top of bin). Take note that your worm bins should be waterproof to be able to protect your worms (from the rain for when its placed outdoors, etc.), so you can choose to use plastic or wood for this. Make sure that you drill as many holes in the base and sides of the bin, to make way for proper aeration and drainage. You’ll also have to put in some pre-soaked shreds of newspapers on the worms moist bedding; as well as some soil (some straw or peat moss) for grit, to help further with the worms digestion. Also, your worms bedding should always be kept as wet as a wrung out sponge. Other than that, also put in an ongoing supply of organic wastes that can be used as feeds for your red worms. Anyway, the worm bin also has a base bin, for where it catches the liquids, or other deposits dripping out of the bin (usually contains bedding and worm compost/castings contents combined). The liquid waste by-product by the way is called the worm tea.
So, to continue caring for the red worms inside of your wood worm bin construction, you should be able to feed them the right organic stuff. They are vegetarians, and are also born with no teeth. So it’s best to just feed them food scraps in small pieces like chopped vegetables, fruit peels (stray away from the citrus-acidic types), crushed eggshells, pre-soaked cardboard or newspaper, some coffee grounds, and tea bag filters. Don’t feed them dairy, meat, poultry, and oily foods so that odor problems can be avoided.
You may now start harvesting the worm castings after several months. You’ll see that your worm composting pals have made quite a pile when you begin to see a mound of rich dark soil, with an earthy smell to it. So to be able to harvest these castings (in the quickest way possible), you’ll have to feed your worms on the other half of your bin. And as soon as your worms have transferred to this side, then you may start harvesting the castings without having to disturb your compost pals. You’ll just have to repeat the same procedure to get the same results.